Best way to make lots of 1/8" slots

[Warren Lake]

if you can use stuff that wont compress that is why i said shim stock but have used whatever I find in the shop Lam backer or feeler gauge or. Feeler gauges easier to dial in. This is sort like those bobble dadoe blades, had zero interst in them when regular dadoes do the job.

[Bill Dufour]

HSS blade and a saw set. HSS teeth should last a good time in soft pine.
BilL D.

[Rich Engelhardt]

doesnt say if ripping or cross cutting better figure that out first

It doesn't matter really since a rip blade is being recommended only because the teeth leave a flat bottom in the slot.

As for the task itself - it sounds tailor made for something a track saw can do.

[William Hodge]

Given the time spent and desired quality, buying a saw blade should be worth it. I bought a little 3/16" wide saw blade, probably 8" in diameter. I needed to make a bunch of 3/16" cross cuts. A year later it was perfect for cutting grooves for a few hours. I just added the cost of the blade to the first job. It paid back on the second job. Having lots of cutters always pays back.

[Keegan Shields]

A router with edge guide and a 1/8" bit might be your most economical solution if you already own the router/edge guide. Or if you own a router table. Won't be as fast as a table saw but a router bit would be cheaper.

Cheap / Fast / High Quality - pick two...

[Edward Weber]

An 1/8" router bit cutting a 1/4" groove, will clog, vibrate, break, dull and probably do some other unwanted things, all in the first cut.
Freud makes an 8" combo blade that will work for what the OP described, for about $75
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU84M008

This doesn't need to be complicated

[Keegan Shields]

An 1/8" router bit cutting a 1/4" groove, will clog, vibrate, break, dull and probably do some other unwanted things, all in the first cut.
Freud makes an 8" combo blade that will work for what the OP described, for about $75
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU84M008

This doesn't need to be complicated

Sure buddy...

[Edward Weber]

Sure buddy...

Not sure what that means

[Dan Barber]

I belive it means he does not agree with your assessment that 1/8" router bit won't work. I tend to agree with him, router could work just fine if the right technique is used.

[Bill Dufour]

I guess no one here owns an adjustable sawset? This is almost the job they are designed to do, isn't it?
Bill D

[glenn bradley]

S(sorry $100+ isn't a reasonable price to me)

I'm afraid this will be your sticking point. Some things have a certain price point. A blade in that diameter with that much stock removal per pass is going to be for something specific. A smaller saw would normally run a thinner blade to require less power. You may get lucky and find a smaller blade diameter with a wide kerf. You could also find a used 8" dado stack and have just one of the outer plates sharpened up for your use. Tablesaw is the tool for the job IMHO.

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[Edward Weber]

I belive it means he does not agree with your assessment that 1/8" router bit won't work. I tend to agree with him, router could work just fine if the right technique is used.

IME
An 1/8" bit will work BUT it will encounter more issues than a saw blade, as I mentioned
1/8" router bits have extremely small flutes and when used in a wood like pine, they usually tend to gum up with resin quite quickly, necessitating frequently cleaning. They also have the tendency of overheating when used for large amounts of stock removal (lots of slots)

These are just a few reasons why I would use a saw instead of a router.
YMMV, Feel free to disagree

[Lee Schierer]

I need make LOTS of 1/8" slots. Mostly in pine but also some in plywood. I think the best way would be table saw. But where can I find a 8-9" tablesaw blade with a fat tooth (min., 0.125, preferrably closer to 0.140 or 9/64) that won't break the bank? Or do is there another method I haven't thought of that won't break the bank. P.S. I already considered the router but the slot would be 1/8" and nothing more and the chances of breaking the bit are pretty high given the number of cuts I have to make.

I don't know which bank you use, but this blade will fit your saw and do the job. A zero clearance insert and backer board will improve the cut no matter which blade you choose. I have cut may 1/8" slots of various depths using the 10" version.

[Thomas L Carpenter]

You may not be limited to a 9" or less blade depending on your saw. I used to have an 8" Craftsman saw that I used a 10" blade on for years as did my Dad before me. You might stick a cheap 10 incher on yours to see if it will work. If so it opens the door for a lot more choices for your project.

[Cameron Wood]

Wouldn't a wobble dado rig work with whatever blade you have?