building a temporary wall

[David Bolson]

I'm not sure this is the right forum for this, but here's my question:

My son is moving into a NYC apartment with 3 other guys (friends). The apartment is 3 levels and he has the top level which consists of a bedroom. As is, he has no privacy from the downstairs because of the open staircase. He is not worried about security at all but wants privacy. He also has a very limited budget. My plan is to build a very light duty wall with some insulation and zip tie it to the staircase. I don't want any trouble from the landlord by screwing things into the staircase, floor or ceiling. And put a heavy duty curtain as a door. I'm thinking the wall would be paneling on two sides, built on 2x3 studs 16" on center, with insulation sandwiched in between. I don't love this idea and if anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them. I also have a logistical problem in that I have to drive into NYC with materials from New Jersey and my Mazda CX5 can't hold a 4x8 sheet.

David

staircase1.jpg

staircase2.jpg

[Zachary Hoyt]

Seems to me it would be easier to cover up the railings with solid panels and make a sort of hatch for the top of the stairwell and a gate for the stairhead itself. This would look funny, but it would be less material.

[Jim Becker]

You could do it like an art gallery wall, using the corner so it's free standing with minimal need to fasten it down. I do think you need to use a few anchors besides just the railing, honestly, but repairing a small hole from an anchor in the wall/ceiling shouldn't be too much work.

[Lee Schierer]

Why not build a screen door type frame to fit the opening to his room. Instead of screen use your heavy duty cloth or even a sheet of luan plywood. Attach hinges and a 1 X 3 to one side. Then attach the 1x3 to an wall with velcro command strips. When he moves out detach the door and remove the command strips from the wall. You could even build a door frame for the other side to act as a stop or a place for a latch. You could still build your wall and attach it to the railing with zip ties.

[Bill Dufour]

Japanese shoji screens come to mind. multifold so they stand up on their own. Or two separate amoires at an angle. Buy some older ones that are designed to come apart for moving . carpet/tapestry hanging will help with the sound level
Bill D.

[Rob Sack]

I would use steel studs. Easier to carry, lighter weight, can be cut with aviation snips, and connected with self tapping screws. For panels, what about using lightweight acoustical panels?

[Rich Engelhardt]

How about making PVC frames for screens and using plastic sheets - shower curtains for instance?

Fairly inexpensive and very easy to transport in a small SUV & just as important - easy to hump the stuff to the place - by hand/on foot when you hit the city. God only knows how far away you'll have to park.
I used to have to run deliveries of computer equipment in downtown Cleveland. Finding a place to park was always a huge problem. Humping a laser printer 3 blocks ain't fun....

I found this link:
https://www.hgtv.com/design/make-and...-from-pvc-pipe

[Holmes Anderson]

Just build a half wall up to the handrail.

[Bill Dufour]

Buy some used office divider panels and let the store deliver them.
Bill D.

[Jim Becker]

I would use steel studs. Easier to carry, lighter weight, can be cut with aviation snips, and connected with self tapping screws.

This is actually a good idea. The stuff is easy to work with, light in weight and easy to anchor; double stick tape on the bottom plate, for example, so no screws into the floor and maybe two or three simple anchors/screws into the ceiling that can easily be repaired upon vacating the space.

Surplus tall office cubicle sections are also a possibility, but they are generally only so tall.

[David Stone (CT)]

I would build the walls as two torsion boxes (or three, if the "wall" parallel the stair would be too wide to fit in your vehicle), skinned with, say, 1/4 in. birch ply over a frame of 3/4 x 2 pine or similar. The two sections would attach to one another at the corner but otherwise be supported by fastening to the balustrade, as you propose. You could also make a torsion box door in lieu of a curtain, or maybe modify a store bought hollow core door. The virtue of this approach is everything is as light and easy to transport and install as possible and there's (hopefully) no need to do any noisy, messy work on site or sneak construction materials past the super (if his building is big enough to have one).

[Bryan Lisowski]

Is there a way to add a door at the bottom of the stairwell? I would have your son talk to the landlord, usually they will accommodate modifications as long as your willing to restore to as is condition. If he isn’t planning to be there for more than a year, the best idea I heard was the shoji screen idea.

[David Bolson]

My biggest concern is getting the material into my car an then getting materials and tools into the apartment and then making a sawdust mess in the apartment. Now I'm thinking of just running "soundproof" curtains around the railing. Something like this. And this. And put some paneling along the railing to close the bottom 6 inches or so. I think I'll save myself a bunch of aggravation this way. I'll see what my son thinks.

I wish I could just put a door at the bottom of the stairs, but it's all open.

Screenshot (26).jpg

[Jim Becker]

It seems to me that you can pre-cut material and assembly in place at the top of the stairs which may provide better privacy that draping the stairs from the floor below. But maybe I'm mis-interpreting the situation. I've been focused on the original photos with my thoughts.

Transportation of stuff is certainly a consideration...help from a friend or a rental van, etc., might be the solution, particularly for panels.

[Charles P. Wright]

One of my friends moved into an apartment in the city and had a company install a temporary wall. From what he told me, it was basically held in tension between the floor and ceiling instead of attaching it to anything.