Which plane to get

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Ryan,

You're right, they're both 60 1/2 block planes, but they're very different. The one I'm referring to and noted in my comment is the one with the adjustable mouth. Check out the LN website for the particulars of each. I don't have or ever used the 60 1/2 rabbet version, but I do have both the right and left 140 skew block planes which can be used as rabbet planes and many other things. In my opinion, the 60 1/2 rabbet block plane is kind of a compromise of many planes and not particularly versatile. Caveat emptor.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

I don't know if they ever hold their hand tool events in Houston, but a great way to test drive all LN tools is to attend one. LN reps are there to demonstrate the tools and assist you in using them. Great way to meet and connect with other area woodworker's as well. It's dangerous though; I've spent a lot of money as a result.

[Ryan Haugle]

The rabbet block is intended for any application where a shoulder plane can be used, in fact you could think of it as a very wide shoulder plane. It’s my go to for tuning up tenons over 2”

The only issue using is like a block plane is you will get plane tracks on wider surfaces. Other than that it can be a dual purpose tool.

That said, I have both the planes you’ve listed.

Of the two, the rabbet block plane is more useful to me personally.

I originally bought the la jack with hotdog attachment for use with a shooting board, but alas I find it too lightweight and too hard on my hands even with attachment.

Aside from those two have you thought about a 4 1/2? I really live my LN 4 1/2 especially for smoothing faces.

The rusty one in the middle of my picture is between a 4 and 5, so I'm guessing it's a 4 1/2 , but there are no markings that I can find. I need to take it apart and clean it up, then hopefully I can find something.

Maybe I need to ditch the LA Jack, and get a block and a shoulder plane

[William Fretwell]

The 60 1/2 block plane is fine but not for trimming tenons. Also consider the shoulder plane. I have the LV large shoulder plane and found it became one of my favourites.
Your two ‘rusty’ workhorses can be improved quite easily.

[Jim Koepke]

The rusty one in the middle of my picture is between a 4 and 5, so I'm guessing it's a 4 1/2 , but there are no markings that I can find. I need to take it apart and clean it up, then hopefully I can find something.

Maybe I need to ditch the LA Jack, and get a block and a shoulder plane

The width of the blade will tell you if it is a #4-1/2. The #4 & 5 have a 2" wide blade. The #4-1/2 has a 2-3/8" blade.

There isn't enough detail in the image to tell, but the lateral adjuster looks to be of the folded over type.

It also looks like there may be a mound around the base of the knob.

More images with a clearer view of the lateral adjuster and other components would help in the identification.

jtk

[Ryan Haugle]

The width of the blade will tell you if it is a #4-1/2. The #4 & 5 have a 2" wide blade. The #4-1/2 has a 2-3/8" blade.

There isn't enough detail in the image to tell, but the lateral adjuster looks to be of the folded over type.

It also looks like there may be a mound around the base of the knob.

More images with a clearer view of the lateral adjuster and other components would help in the identification.

jtk

Yes, that picture is terrible.. I will get it pulled apart this week and post some help pics!

[Kurt Cady]

Go with a LV low angle jack and a LN 60.5. Both of those planes you’d have to pry from my cold dead hands. However, both planes - especially that block - is a matter of feel. You need to try them out. Some people with large hands love the LV block. I hate it - too wide. The LN is perfect except for not having PMV11 steel. The LV low angle jack has an amazing low center of gravity. It isn’t a gimmick plane. Warren thinks anything made after 1850 is a gimmick. It’s a good beginner plane that is manufactured to a high spec and can easily be your shooting plane like it is mine. And, as a beginner plane, it can teach you about hand tool use and guide what you may want later. An extra blade is an easy add on at a later date to give even more flexibility. It is not the best plane for everything out there like some people like to claim but it very very serviceable at many many tasks. They pop up used in great condition around here once in awhile.

I wouldnt get into the joinery planes until you know this hobby is for sure something you want to pursue. And the rabbet block would be far far down the list.

[Jack Frederick]

The LN #62 LA Jack and 60 1/2 are my go to planes. I have the toothed blade for the jack and was surprised at how well it worked for me. The adj mouth of the 60 1/2 is the big difference. If you buy those or your rabbit, they are excellent tools I don’t think you will regret buying. I don’t know, but you might even find someone who has one gathering dust...? I bought a #7 Stanley jointer at an antique store last year for very short money. After cleaning and tuning it does a really good job. I go in there on occasion looking for a couple old Bailey’s and will continue to do so.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi all,
I'm trying to decide which plane to get. My two choices are either the veritas LA Jack, or a lie-nielsen rabbet block plane..

I currently have a cheap, Kobalt (Lowe's brand) block plane, a Stanley no 4, 5 and 7. The 4 and 7 were planes I won at an auction. They aren't in great condition, but work. The 5 is a newer style, plastic handle.. kind of junky sadly. Bought this one before I really knew what I was looking for/doing.
.
What do y'all think?

Ryan, I’ll add my opinion ...

The Stanley 4, 5, and 7 are the three bench planes that count most. Take some time to clean them up and tune them to work as best you can. Remove all rust and, if necessary (if they are pitted or very out-of-flat), replace the blades with Veritas PM-V11. Get a second blade for the #5 anyway. Camber one for removing waste, and a straight one for short jointing and narrow edges. Learn to use the chipbreaker to control tearout (David Weaver wrote a great article on this). It is possible to turn these planes into superior performers.

I’d get a better block plane. It is a very useful tool for small areas, such as chamfering. If you are trying to keep costs down, look at the LN #102. If you can stretch the budget, the LN 60 1/2 or Veritas DX60.

Many have suggested a LA Jack as your second plane. I would do it differently in your case. A LA Jack is a good plane, and useful for a number of tasks, such as shooting and jointing. I would recommend it if someone was starting out with fewer planes than you have. At this stage I would use your #5 (with a straight blade) or the #7. Either will do a good job as long as the blade is sharp (that should go without saying).

I also would not recommend a shoulder plane. Mortice-and-tenon joints are among the most common joints you will make, but I am not a fan of planes in tuning either shoulders or cheeks (as it requires a fair degree of skill to avoid tilting the plane and removing more waste than you want). The one exception is a router plane, since it will ensure that the cheek is parallel to the face of the stretcher. I would use a chisel for both shoulders (push a medium chisel into the scribed line) and cheeks (use a pencil for high spots and and remove with a wide chisel).

The plane that you most need right now is one for rebates and drawer grooves. So, the Veritas Small Rabbet Plane can do both. Or, look out for a vintage Stanley #78 for the rebates and make your own wooden grooving plane for drawer sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Heath]

I don't think there's anything "gimmicky" about a low angle jack plane. I've had my LN version for 20 years, and I think it's an outstanding plane, with multiple uses. The adjustable mouth allows it to be used as you choose.....tightly set for smoothing difficult grain and end grain, or open it up for heavier cuts. You can outfit it with with a 2nd iron, without buying an entire plane, ground at 45°, give or take, to be a high angle smoother for attacking difficult grain. You can also outfit it with a toothing iron for planing burls, crotch figure, and other very difficult-to-plane woods, without creating any tearout. 1 plane, 3 irons, and a lot of versatility at your workbench without having to purchase multiple planes.

I recently used mine to smooth an endgrain cutting board I made as a gift, and it did a really great job on the endgrain, without any tearout at all (edges beveled first).

I have made a complete set of wooden planes for myself, and I, too, prefer wooden planes for my bench work. That being said, there's no wooden plane equivalent that is as versatile, with switching out irons, as the LA jack. It's my favorite, and most used, metal plane.

[andy bessette]

Get a quality low angle block plane with adjustable throat, and a quality shoulder plane about 3/4" wide.

[Jim Koepke]

One thing always becomes clear in a "what plane to buy" thread, everyone loves to spend other people's money.

Ryan, your best move may be to work with the planes you already have and get them working well.

How well does the Kobalt block plane work? It may be a fine user for now.

As for getting away from pocket hole joinery and into more traditional joinery, your money may be better used to purchase some chisels or a joinery saw or two if you do not already have tools that will do these tasks. They do not need to be premium quality to get the job done.

My most expensive tools are the ones with little or no use in my shop.

Don't let the siren song of a new tool take your wallet for a ride.

jtk

[bill epstein]

Ryan, I’ll add my opinion ...

The Stanley 4, 5, and 7 are the three bench planes that count most. Take some time to clean them up and tune them to work as best you can. Remove all rust and, if necessary (if they are pitted or very out-of-flat), replace the blades with Veritas PM-V11. Get a second blade for the #5 anyway. Camber one for removing waste, and a straight one for short jointing and narrow edges. Learn to use the chipbreaker to control tearout (David Weaver wrote a great article on this). It is possible to turn these planes into superior performers.

I’d get a better block plane. It is a very useful tool for small areas, such as chamfering. If you are trying to keep costs down, look at the LN #102. If you can stretch the budget, the LN 60 1/2 or Veritas DX60.

Many have suggested a LA Jack as your second plane. I would do it differently in your case. A LA Jack is a good plane, and useful for a number of tasks, such as shooting and jointing. I would recommend it if someone was starting out with fewer planes than you have. At this stage I would use your #5 (with a straight blade) or the #7. Either will do a good job as long as the blade is sharp (that should go without saying).

I also would not recommend a shoulder plane. Mortice-and-tenon joints are among the most common joints you will make, but I am not a fan of planes in tuning either shoulders or cheeks (as it requires a fair degree of skill to avoid tilting the plane and removing more waste than you want). The one exception is a router plane, since it will ensure that the cheek is parallel to the face of the stretcher. I would use a chisel for both shoulders (push a medium chisel into the scribed line) and cheeks (use a pencil for high spots and and remove with a wide chisel).

The plane that you most need right now is one for rebates and drawer grooves. So, the Veritas Small Rabbet Plane can do both. Or, look out for a vintage Stanley #78 for the rebates and make your own wooden grooving plane for drawer sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek and I would really get along, I agree with each and every point. That doesn't mean our techniques will work for you, however. You may become the shoulder planing champion of your street simply because using a plane on tenons feels right.

Recently, after decades of using just a Record #4, #7, and the ubiquitous Stanley Block Plane I was enticed by all the talk and video about LA Jacks. You should do as I did and visit a Woodcraft or Rockler or ______ and try the planes you mention. My local Woodcraft let me spend an hour test driving the LA Jacks against my #4 that I brought along, as well as a #5 1/2. I was underwhelmed by both the LN and Wood River LA Jacks; my #4 felt about the same. $2-$300 saved! I did fall victim to the goodness of a Wood River 5 1/2, though which I never knew I needed and took it home.

Decide for yourself.

[Brian Holcombe]

I use a shoulder plane in my work, but never for shoulders or tenon cheeks. Both operations are awkwardly done with a plane (use a chisel instead). I find them useful for rabbeted edges as I often make rabbeted edges on an underside face which will be felt and so must be cleanly planed.

Cover the basics first, and cover them well. Those are the tools you will use most often, so if they aren't in good working order you'll find frustrations with the work.

[lowell holmes]

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https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...handleset.aspx