Purchased a Stanley 45 the nickers could do with some maintenance, what is the easiest way to sharpen them, I've got big fingers holding these things is not easy.
avid
Purchased a Stanley 45 the nickers could do with some maintenance, what is the easiest way to sharpen them, I've got big fingers holding these things is not easy.
avid
A small pair of locking pliers could be helpful. Also, if these are the 3.wings.with.a.hole type, a small screw in the hole mounting it to a block of wood could be helpful.
I've thought about this too.
How about a longer screw to screw the nicker onto a holding jig?
Put a fat fingertip into the beveled/countersink area. Push the nicker around on your stone of choice....hone the flat/back of the nicker. KISS.....
I think that LN has an available accessory for its honing jig. Only $79.95. Or you could do what Steven suggests
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Whoa, take it easy, k.i.s.s. indeed! Good idea about the fat finger though.
Don't forget that nickers are generally soft enough to be filed (Rc50 or so, similar to a quality scraper or handsaw). I generally file mine to shape in a metalworking vise, and then hone freehand on an Ark to refine.
The $79 option from L-N sounds tempting, of course. Knowing them it might actually exist :-).
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-26-2017 at 9:26 PM.
Most knickers can be held down with the eraser end of a pencil; then slid around on a water or oil stone.
A pencil is MUCH easier on your fingers. BTDT.
There are two "gotchas" to be aware of with the finger/eraser technique though:
1. Doing significant sharpening by lapping the back as Steven suggested will inevitably thin the nicker. That's OK in a design like the Veritas that has a depth-adjust screw for the nicker, but not so good for the Stanley planes, which require the nicker to be exactly 50 mils thick to register to the outside edge of the skate. If the nicker doesn't reach to that edge then it won't do you any good. Of course you can put a shim under the nicker to bring it back into alignment, but that makes it more of a pain to adjust (been there, tried that, ended up paying for a new nicker).
2. On old planes the nicker bevel geometry is often messed up, and working the back alone won't fix that.
For my #55 I filed the nicker to the shape I wanted (it's the sliding kind so I had some extra metal to work with) and then refined the bevel on an ark. I only lapped the back enough to remove the burr. These things are made a little softer than irons for a reason, and we'd might as well take advantage of it.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-27-2017 at 12:54 AM.
Overthinking way too much, again.....nickers are about $6 counting shipping...and, in a pinch, the Stanley ones have two other lobes that can be sharpened up...
How about a magnet on the end of a dowel?
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 09-27-2017 at 1:39 PM.
Is it possible a typo above and you mean the #55 had three nicker styles?
My curiosity is going crazy as my understanding is there are two basic style of knicker on the #55. The sliding oblong knickers on the early models and then the cloverleaf design use started some time between 1910 and 1920. What was the third design?
All of my #45s from a type 4 through the later types have the same cloverleaf knicker. The only difference noticed on my planes is the early ones came with one spur sharpened. The later planes came with all three spurs round and dull.
A quick consult with Dr. Google found this spur sharpening video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AhaJmvQCfQ
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
The "older sliding nicker " was used on planes like the #39 Dado planes. Even the #78 has the 3 lobe nicker....