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Thread: Frame saw

  1. #1
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    Frame saw

    I was recently was given this frame saw that was my wife's grandfathers. I don't see any makers marks on it and have no idea if he made it or who did and when it would have been made.

    The blade is 1/2" wide, 4 TPI and 22" long. The moving members (what are they called?) are 14 inches so approx 7" throat depth.

    Luckily the broken piece is a perfect fit and intact so I'm gluing it up. Just planning to clean it up a bit, derust the hardware, file/dress the teeth and look for some replacement wingnuts for the tensioning rod.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    I was recently was given this frame saw that was my wife's grandfathers. I don't see any makers marks on it and have no idea if he made it or who did and when it would have been made.

    The blade is 1/2" wide, 4 TPI and 22" long. The moving members (what are they called?) are 14 inches so approx 7" throat depth.
    I've always called them arms. It's more common to use an M&T joint to attach the stretcher to the arms, instead of the bridle joint in your saw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Luckily the broken piece is a perfect fit and intact so I'm gluing it up. Just planning to clean it up a bit, derust the hardware, file/dress the teeth and look for some replacement wingnuts for the tensioning rod.
    If you're going to use it you might want to consider replacing the rod and wing nuts with a cord and toggle. In my experience wing-nuts are more difficult to work with over the long haul. I did that to my Highland bow saws a while back.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    I've always called them arms. It's more common to use an M&T joint to attach the stretcher to the arms, instead of the bridle joint in your saw.



    If you're going to use it you might want to consider replacing the rod and wing nuts with a cord and toggle. In my experience wing-nuts are more difficult to work with over the long haul. I did that to my Highland bow saws a while back.
    Interesting idea Patrick. I hadn't thought about that. I do think I'll give it a try as-is, out of respect for the way it was originally though and then decide. What type of cord is traditionally used for these?

  4. #4
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    Very nice hand down. Glad it's gone to a good home.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Very nice hand down. Glad it's gone to a good home.
    Thanks Phil. I'm a bit anxious to try it out ripping some material. Its the most aggressive saw I now have. Previously its been a 7 TPI handsaw..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Interesting idea Patrick. I hadn't thought about that. I do think I'll give it a try as-is, out of respect for the way it was originally though and then decide. What type of cord is traditionally used for these?
    Traditionally cord of some sort, probably hemp. I use a heavy duty braided fishing line in mine. I think I got the idea from TFWW's 12" bowsaw.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Thanks Phil. I'm a bit anxious to try it out ripping some material. Its the most aggressive saw I now have. Previously its been a 7 TPI handsaw..
    The nice thing about a bowsaw is that it's very easy to change the blade. A lot of people "convert" bandsaw blades, or you can get made-for-the-purpose blades from a number of sources, assuming your saw is a standard size.

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