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Thread: Dadoes with Hand Tools

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,281
    I can make use of the skinny one these..
    IMAG0056.jpg
    But it would need a guide batten, the 78?
    IMAG0066.jpg
    Just does it's own thing...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Johnstown, Ohio
    Posts
    67
    Hi Steven, Thanks for the offer. You are close enough that this may just be possible. I am going to try a few more things on some test pieces before I give up. I have cut the dadoes in the till saw that I am making by using the Stanley router plane. Was not too bad, but I was hoping I could do the dadoes using one of the vintage molding planes that I have. I will get back to you if I throw in the towel on the molding plane approach.
    Regards,
    Don

  3. #33
    Don, You may want to watch some of the videos of HNT Gordon on Youtube. If you don't have the front nickers down past the depth of the iron, that may be part of the problem. Make sure that your plane is straight, remember it is probably older than you are. I've seen folks plane the sides to straighten them. Don't know if they glued on a thin veneer to get back to the original width. That might not be an issue anyway as old dado planes are probably a little bit thinner than when new due to shrinkage over time. Clamp down a board next to the intended dado to use as a fence. Gluing 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom of the fence helps to keep it from moving. I would start with the iron barely extended past the bed at first and work your way to deeper cuts after you get it working properly. I own some of those HNT Gordon dado planes and they are really nice, but a bit expensive. But they are beautiful! I've got an old one inch dado plane made by Auburn that I am going to try to get working in the next couple of weeks.

    Don't give up!

    Allen

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,281
    Not sure IF it has been mentioned here, or not:

    Check the sole for flat with a straightedge. Sounds almost like the bottom is a bit rounded up on the ends. Then, it rocks along. Too much pressure on the heel, and it stops cutting, too much on the nose, and it digs in. Simple to check, simple to fix.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Johnstown, Ohio
    Posts
    67
    Thanks Allen for responding. I have not had to do another dado since I posted earlier in the year. Reflecting back on the whole thing I think that I had the blade set a little too aggressive. I could not obtain the same experience that I saw on Youtube videos where they used a board to act as a fence then just started in with the dado plane. It all went so easy in the videos. I will be trying again soon to make some dadoes and apply many of the suggestions that I have received. I did as you suggested and watched the Gordon videos. Looks so easy when they do it. I cannot afford the planes he was using. They look great and I would love to have some of them.
    Thanks again for your support.
    Don

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Hunt View Post
    Clamp down a board next to the intended dado to use as a fence. Gluing 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom of the fence helps to keep it from moving.
    Allen
    A board used that way is usually called a "batten". If it's tall enough and square it will guide the plane in angle as well as position. I personally use battens where possible even when working with planes that have fences (for example I use my rabbet planes with their fences removed a lot of the time).

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