Problems finishing new interior doors

[Patrick McCarthy]

I have started replacing the interior doors of my house. I am installing 12 new doors, all of which are 4 panel cherry veneered doors. Actually, the panels are solid but the rails and stiles are veneered. I am not happy with the results thus far on the first two that I have been finishing, and want to get it figured out before I start the next 10. Although more details are provided below, ultimately my questions are going to be:

1. Sanding – How do I determine a starting grit and where do I stop?
2. Wiping varnish – Am I getting “blush” or am I pressing too hard when wiping (rubbing)off ?
3. Sheen – Is the wiping process inappropriate for gloss varnish as opposed to satin?
4. Sheen – Is using a gloss varnish on interior doors violating some aesthetic “norm” – I know that it is my house, and it is only my wife’s opinion that really matters, but is this something that most “normal” people would find disconcerting or visually jarring?
5. Shellac – Any downside to doing the rest of them with a wiping shellac (not French Polish)?

Goals and Assumptions–

It is my house, so obviously I want it to be nice. Ideally, I want a nice aesthetic and want something close to an “in the wood” feel. At all costs, I want to avoid the plastic look.

Process thus far -

Initially wiping the doors down with mineral spirits I noticed that the top, middle and bottom rails all showed some cross-grain scratches, presumably from a wide belt sander. The grain runs horizontal (obviously on the rails).

Since the face of the rails and stiles are veneered, I tried using a scraper and mostly came up with dust as opposed to any mini curls (perhaps I was trying to be too delicate, but I lack the confidence to be too aggressive, fearing I’d penetrate the veneer).

I next block sanded with Klingspor 360, getting some buildup on the paper but frequently changing it.

Next, again wiping it down with mineral spirits I put a coat of de-waxed garnet Shellac on and then lightly - very lightly – sanded it at 360 just to remove any nibs.

Using Pratt & Lambert 38 gloss varnish I have been trying to use the wiping varnish recipe and directions that Howie Acheson kindly pointed out on several occasions at Hardwood Lumber & More. In essence, I had been using a 50/50 mix (first coat, wait 30 – 45 minutes, second coat, wait 30 – 45 minutes, third coat, wait 24 or more hours).

On one side of the two doors I have 2 applications (6 coats) and on the other side 3 applications (9 coats).

What I am Seeing –

In a raking light, I notice on the top rail that I can still see some of the cross-grain marks, presumably from the wide belt sander. I also note some of those along the stiles. My conclusion is that I failed to do adequate surface preparation, presumably I should have started much lower than 360 despite the fact that the wood “felt” smooth. Thus, my first question, how do I figure out what grit to start at and how do I know when to stop grit-wise ?

What Else I’m Seeing –

Again, in a raking light, I am seeing that the sheen of my finish is not the same. Again, this is in raking light and therefore I am primarily noticing it on the top rail, although I presume it is consistent throughout. I seem to get more of a striped finish where it goes from gloss to duller to gloss in long streaks. It is my assumption that I am pressing too hard when wiping off, although I don’t really think I am pressing that much.

Process-wise I am using old cotton t-shirts, covering the mouth with the jar holding the 50/50 mix, turning it upside down and then doing a panel or a style one direction, going back over it and probably a third time as well.

Before sanding or stripping the current finish I am planning on sanding the 3rd door and maybe start at 180, go 220, 280 ? or try re-sharpening the scraper . . . although it may be technique since I feel a burr. . .

Thanks for reading this far. Patrick

Thoughts, comments, laugher?

[Steve Schoene]

If you are using wiping varnish you should only be wiping on, not wiping off. The wipe on process should leave a VERY thin film, roughly as damp as that when a waitress cleans a table in a restaurant. You do not need to wipe in long strokes with the grain--it's more important to get an even film, and this can be done with circular wiping pattern
As far as sanding, you could likely start, and finish sanding the wood with 220 grit. All this finish sanding should be by hand with a slightly padded sanding block.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Steve, thank you. I will retool my approach and hope for better results! Patrick

[John TenEyck]

For the doors you've already done, you would have to chemically strip them and then sand in order to get rid of the cross grain scratches. I would start with a random orbit sander and then finish by hand sanding. The correct grit to start with is the finest one that will remove the scratches that are there. I'd start with 150 grit, make two or three passes over the upper rail, vacuum, then wipe with alcohol and look to see if the cross grain scratches are gone. If they are, great, if not, either sand longer or move down to 120 grit. After you're figured out where to start, work up through the grits to at least 220, maybe even 320; beyond that is a waste IMHO for a simple finish. After finishing with the finest grit with the ROS, then go back over it with the same grit by hand, sanding with the grain.

If you want a close the wood finish, a film finish like P&L 38 would not be my first choice. I'd choose an oil/varnish mix, or a simple wiped or sprayed on shellac finish, a couple of coats thinly applied, and then buffed with a fine/ultrafine 3M pad to a soft luster.

John