Tips on Mortise Accuracy - Which method?

[Michael Koons]

I am in the process of working hard on the accuracy and precision of my woodworking. Recent efforts have included a much bigger effort in sharpening all tools, investments in accurate measuring gauges and guides, power tool tune-ups and even upgrades. (Many of those efforts guided by the great advice from this community. Thank you!)

I am now turning my attention to my mortising process. My current method involves a drill press and chisel and it is not producing the results I'd like. I fuss too long on set up and my mortises are not as accurate as I would like. I am currently evaluating my options including router table set-ups, homemade shop jigs (FWW has plans for one), Mortise Pal or a dedicated mortiser. Money is really not a factor up to about $500. I'd really like to find a solution that allows me repeatable accuracy without taking as long for set up as I do for the actual cutting.

What do you guys find is the best method to achieve what I'm looking for? Thanks again, in advance for the help.

[Ryan Brucks]

I have not made one of these yet, but I am going to make a pantorouter. Can make motises similiar to a slot mortiser and also make the tenons. very neat little tool.

http://woodgears.ca/pantorouter/

Maybe something to consider?

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a hollow chisel mortiser which is nice because it allows me to make deep mortises, it's quiet, and it doesn't spew dust everywhere.

Since I have a Euro jointer/planer I've been looking at slot mortisers, they're nice, and can do deep mortises also.

I also cut them by hand if I'm only making one or two..............Rod.

[Jamie Buxton]

I use a plunge router. For most joinery, it is guided by an edge guide. For some rare situations, I use a template guide and a shop-made template. The plunge router gives nice straight walls on the mortise. It also isn't too expensive. And it is useful for many other operations in the shop. For me, an issue with dedicated machines like hollow-chisel mortisers and slot mortisers is that they eat space in the shop all the time, and justify that space only when they're cutting mortises. In a big contrast, the plunge mortiser eats much less space, and gets used for many other things.

[Peter Quinn]

At that price point I'd look at a big plunge router and a shop made jig. I made a few templates on the router table that involved a slot in a piece of MDF which guides a brass bushing on a plunge router. THey can handle most furniture depth mortises, they are versatile, cheap, and highly accurate if you make them that way. Fairly quick too, but a bit messy, and as with any router operation, noisy. I bought a slot mortiser a few years back, and that is really my favorite method for non thru mortises. But an entry level slot mortiser (Laguna platinum) with tooling is nearly triple your budget. Unless you get a euro combo and add a slot mortiser to that, then its about 30X your budget, but you get a great jointer/planer too which adds versatility.

I've used a few chisel mortisers, and a bench top model may hit your price point. I used a general that worked well. Its almost more a matter of style and need which method you choose, many different options are equally accurate and relatively expedient.

[Bob Wingard]

Take a look at how John Nixon does it in his video at www.eaglelakewoodworking.com ... there is no single method or tool that is BEST for everybody ... at least not short of CNC. I have used John's methods, including a version of his powered router lift with great results. I can't say it's the best for you, but it certainly is worth trying ... once dialed-in, it is about as foolproof as it gets. For really deep mortises, I've used long endmills, and other than dulling a bit faster then carbide, provide great surfaces.


Here's the direct link to his Loose Tenon Joinery video ...

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/...n-Joinery.aspx

[Jerry Thompson]

Bob;
I have never ueed an end mill in a router. Can one run them @ the same RPM as router bits?

[Bob Wingard]

I built some exterior entry doors with the FREUD package, and added some deep 1/2" loose tenons for extra strength ... I cut them with a long 1/2" 4 flute end mill, just because I had a few and wanted to give it a try. I slowed my BOSCH 1615EVS to it's minimum speed, and it did an admiral job. Material was Cypress, so I also made my tenon stock from same. Harder wood, I MIGHT have picked up the speed a little, but I doubt it. Using John Nixon's method, I was able to keep up the stock feed rate high enough that there was very little burning, even with the 4 flute bit.

[Mike Cutler]

Michael

I use a benchtop mortiser, with an XY sliding vise for the mortise, and a Delta Tenon Jig on the tablesaw.
The work has to be done in a linear fashion. Cut all of the mortises exactly the same way, at the same time, without changing the setup on the mortiser, and then tune up the tenon jig and cut all of the tenons at the same time. It is very,very, boring. All of your M&T stock has to be prepared at the same time to minimize any statistical deviations in thickness. It takes a little forethought.

Now to be honest, I am a traditional M&T guy that cuts integrated tenons. However, one of my projects had close to 700 M&T joints, and one close to 400 and by the end of those two I was reconsidering my "dogma". Floating tenons starting looking really attractive since then.

[Chris Parks]

My current method involves a drill press and chisel and it is not producing the results I'd like. I fuss too long on set up and my mortises are not as accurate as I would like. I am currently evaluating my options including router table set-ups, homemade shop jigs (FWW has plans for one), Mortise Pal or a dedicated mortiser. Money is really not a factor up to about $500. I'd really like to find a solution that allows me repeatable accuracy without taking as long for set up as I do for the actual cutting.

What do you guys find is the best method to achieve what I'm looking for? Thanks again, in advance for the help.

More practise, nothing more or less. Consider that apprentices would take years to become proficient and we in the modern way want to do it in five minutes so to speak. Choose a project that is not critical, maybe some cabs for the workshop and use that to practise on. Youtube is also a good medium to find video tutorials as well.

[Rick Lizek]

In 40 years of commercial shops the fastest and most accurate is the horizontal slot mortiser and loose tenons. Nothing else comes close. Just as fast in production runs and can throw in quick custom size in the middle of a run with a one minute change over.

[Mike Circo]

If you want to spend money, there are lots of options.

But in my case money WAS an issue, and I still wanted accuracy as my "free" methods were not as repeatable as I'd like. I got a Mortise-Pal and couldn't be happier. Easy, quick and accurate. I've tried dozens of methods, jigs, and tools to cut mortises over the last 20 years and this is still my favorite. For the $100 or so it cost, it paid me back in fewer recuts, waisted lumber and time. I love it. A simple concept executed in quality materials, at any cost it's a good tool.

Now if you are running a production shop, then blow the money on the other options discussed.

Just my experience.

[Michael Mayo]

If you want to spend money, there are lots of options.

But in my case money WAS an issue, and I still wanted accuracy as my "free" methods were not as repeatable as I'd like. I got a Mortise-Pal and couldn't be happier. Easy, quick and accurate. I've tried dozens of methods, jigs, and tools to cut mortises over the last 20 years and this is still my favorite. For the $100 or so it cost, it paid me back in fewer recuts, waisted lumber and time. I love it. A simple concept executed in quality materials, at any cost it's a good tool.

Now if you are running a production shop, then blow the money on the other options discussed.

Just my experience.

That is a very cool tool. But it isn't $100? It costs $209.00 which is a lot for a small one dimensional jig like that although I would consider purchasing it as it seems to be easy to use and repeatable.

http://www.mortisepal.com/storefront.html

The accessories and tenon stock is very reasonable though so it is a one time big purchase for the jig which makes it a little more palatable.

[Mike Circo]

The accessories and tenon stock is very reasonable though so it is a one time big purchase for the jig which makes it a little more palatable.

Oh... I usually use traditional Tenons. There is no requirement to use loose tenons with the jig, that's merely an option. I did use loose tenons once and it makes sizing a bit easier, but its not required.

I don't know how I got the price wrong. Although I did buy it a long while ago and perhaps got an "introductory" price. Still worth it in my view.

[Bill Huber]

That is a very cool tool. But it isn't $100? It costs $209.00 which is a lot for a small one dimensional jig like that although I would consider purchasing it as it seems to be easy to use and repeatable.

http://www.mortisepal.com/storefront.html

The accessories and tenon stock is very reasonable though so it is a one time big purchase for the jig which makes it a little more palatable.

The Mortise Pal is a good little jig, I have one and I make all my own tenons, they are very easy to make and you can make them out of the wood you want. Cut the strips on the table saw then round them over on the router table.