My first rust purchase!!

[Ken Whitney]

John,

I've tried electrolysis, EvapoRust, and citric acid. All work great.

But...

Electrolysis is a fairly serious science experiment (wires and electricity, etc.).

Evaporust is pretty expensive. I picked up some at Harbor Freight, and I think it was about $20 per gallon.

Citric acid powder is relatively cheap and can be purchased at a home-brew or winemaking shop.

I haven't really noticed a quantitative difference between the methods as far as results go.

Good luck with the project.

Ken

[Jim Koepke]

I have knocked light rust and dirt off of screws by chucking them into a drill motor then using a wire brush or steel wool to shine them up.

Mounting screws into the plane base will hold them for cleaning the heads.

jim

[Mike Cutler]

John

Nice plane, I'm certain it will clean up nice

I have a chest full of LN planes, but I can't resist buying old planes and rehabbing them either. I always tell myself it's a learning experience

Mike.

PS.I just found a type 9 ,4 1/2, a #140 and a #11 with a Sweetheart blade,and an off name #4. in addition to the plane body for a Chute Plane. Two MF #9's and a MF#14

I do not need these planes, I do not need these planes...............

[John Keeton]

Lyn, thanks for the info on the iron!! And, Mike, I think you need help

Picked up a gallon of Evaporust (just in case I might succumb to this temptation again at some point, Mike!) and got all the metal cleaned up. Took some quick pics just to kind of show what it looks like now. For some reason, I am having difficulty uploading them??!? I can upload one, then the second upload overwrites the first one. Finally got 4 uploaded, and lost all of them??!? Hopefully, at least one posts with this content.

It really wasn't all that difficult - probably 1 1/2 hour, counting stripping the tote/knob. Everything cleaned up really well. There is some minor pitting on one side, and some staining on the blade, but I think it will sand out for the most part.

I have squared up the edge of the blade, and tomorrow after church, I will put a few coats of shellac on the wood, and flatten and hone the blade.

Then, we will see what kind of shavings this thing will do!!

[Archie England]

Congrats on the solid find.

Evaporust is my favorite. Cleaned Katrina crud off three 5-gallon buckets of planes, braces, etc. It works!!!!! and works and works. Strain it and keep using it.

Just a maybe: the presence of a replacement might just indicate that you've bought a genuine old user, one that will take instaneously long wisps of super thin shavings. The old planes worn with age got that way by those who knew how to use them.

220 and up sandpaper will bring back the shiney; I typically go for 320 or 400 so as not to introduce new sanding dips.

BTW, I start all rust cleaning tasks first with Kerosene. That and brass brushes go a long way.

Welcome to the rusty side of the slope. Enjoy!

[John Keeton]

Thanks Archie! Didn't realize I could strain and reuse the Evaporust. What do I use - cheesecloth or just a paper shop towel. Should I pour it back in the gallon?

I used 80 grit to flatten the sides and sole, and then a little 120, but I intend to take it up a notch or two before I call it done.

BTW, I meant to ask, what do you rust rehabbers use to polish up the brass?

[Bruce Page]

It’s hard to believe that that’s the same plane! How do you apply the Evaporust? Do you soak the piece or brush it on?

So that took like ONE DAY, now what are you going to do?

[Phillip Pattee]

Brasso, and Neverdull both work well to shine up brass. In a pinch, toothpaste also works fine. If you really want to make it shine you can chuck a small stiched wheel into your drill press or hand held drill and load it up with jewelers rouge and polish with that.

[Richard Dooling]

John,

That cleaned up really nice! I just used some citric acid on an old rasp and it did a good job but I've generally used Evaporust and sandpaper on planes. You will be amazed at how long the Evaporust lasts.

Something I've done twice now is make a new tote. An efficient use of my time? Naw! But it's fun and I use projects like that to help me refine my inadequate shaping skills. Plus you get to shape it to your hand. I'm trying to finish up a #8 and will post pics.


.

[John Keeton]

Phillip, I have used Brasso before, so that will be the choice. That was my first inclination, but I wondered if this elite group had some secret recipe

Bruce, the Evaporust requires submersion, so I used the smallest plastic tub I could find in the kitchen ( DO NOT TELL MY WIFE!) so as to not have to use a lot of the product. It is water thin, and non-toxic, so it says. I didn't wear gloves - though that may not be a bad idea.

After soaking for 1/2 hour, I used a small stainless brush, and a bucket of water, to knock off the loose rust that I presume had been chemically converted to a loose dark powder by the process. A couple of the pieces went back for a second bath.

I was amazed at the level of cleaning. The various small parts - bolts, etc. are absolutely new looking. It really was effortless for the most part.

And yes, this little project went way too quick!! I am afraid I may need to find another plane to work on. Of course, this need to get another plane is simply a way to fill shop time - it has nothing to do with the addiction "some of you" experience I am stronger than that! Come to think of it - I hear a lot of addicts say "I can quit anytime I want." But, that would never happen to me??!!??! Would it?

[John Keeton]

Richard, do you strain the Evaporust and put it back in the original container, or do you store the "used" separately?

[Rusty Elam]

+1 on the brasso, the longer you wipe the shinier it gets.
As far as storing the Evaporust I keep mine in a plastic tub that used to hold drywall joint compound (seals easy and tight) and just soak my parts in there. When I need to soak the bases I have a old aluminum foil turkey cooking pan (I guess thats what you call it) that I pour the Evaporust in and then strain it back into the tub using cheesecloth.
The stuff lasts a long time if you keep it sealed.
Rusty

[Matt Ranum]

Its a 12 step program to recovery. Pick out your 12 favorite neanders and send them all you have.

Cleaning those old tools is fun though.

[Archie England]

Didn't realize I could strain and reuse the Evaporust. What do I use - cheesecloth or just a paper shop towel. Should I pour it back in the gallon?

I used 80 grit to flatten the sides and sole, and then a little 120, but I intend to take it up a notch or two before I call it done.

BTW, I meant to ask, what do you rust rehabbers use to polish up the brass?

Well, given that I started with two gallons for my bucket brigade....

I strained the used evaporust in a wire strainer covered by a thick paper towel. It's gotten rather nasty, so I keep the dirtier gallon for first run; the newer one for last cleanings. Hard to believe that I cleaned so many tools with those two gallons.

Like others, Brasso is my preferred cleaner. Likewise, I've invested in a quality "brass" wheel for my cleaning grinder.

You know, with the money I've spent on tools to clean up my cheaply-purchased-but-had-to-be-restored tools, I might have been able to buy the premium tools first. Naaaaah, can't be that simple. Newbies, beware here!!!!!! Restoring tools is not just addictive; it's expensive, too.

[jerry nazard]

John,

I use Brasso/Liberty Polish on the knobs. I chuck them in the drill press and give them a spin. I like this better than buffing on a wheel with tripoli and rouge. I also have some Nyalox abrasive wheels in several flavors that come in handy too. Check your hardware store for the wheels.

-Jerry

PS: I have several type 11's and really like them. You done good!