Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 35 of 35

Thread: Torsion Boxes

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Wixom, MI
    Posts
    1,163
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch
    Keith, please make into an article. Todd

    ?? Make what into an article?

    Keith

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    Keith Outten.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Hey Bob,

    Interesting to hear about your experience with the Burgess Edge...I love my bits! The key is to use featherboards to get consistent cuts...this is true for any joint cut on a router table. One little bobble can cost you a lot of time, money, and grief.

    However, when I use the BE bits, I normally free-hand it on the router table (only way to do it for curves)...you just have to keep your hand pressed down tighly at the cutting point on the plywood. Yes, I've also chewed my fair number of plywood edges with inconsistent cuts using the BE system. I guess it just takes a few time to learn correctly.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Vernon, Connecticut
    Posts
    510
    [QUOTE=Chris Padilla]Hey Bob,

    Interesting to hear about your experience with the Burgess Edge...I love my bits! The key is to use featherboards to get consistent cuts...this is true for any joint cut on a router table. One little bobble can cost you a lot of time, money, and grief.

    Chris,

    I eventually sent the bits back to Burgess. He gave me a portion of what I paid in refund. Last thing I needed around the shop was more tools I don't use .

    I tried to make it work. I was using cherry plywood and loved the concept for centering solid edging. But, after removing the center section, the cherry veneer was so fragile that if I looked at it wrong, it broke off. I did spend a couple of hours trying to tune it, but in the end gave up and decided it wasn't worth it to me.

    Maybe if I was a production shop and spent more time in setup, it would be a different story. But for me, it added stress and time spent away from actually working with wood.

    Everyone certainly has to decide for themselves what works for them.

    Take care, Bob

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    You don't really want/need a "knife" edge for the top/bottom veneers of the plywood--you are correct, way too fragile. You should aim to set up the bits to get the full thickness of the veneer on the top/bottom of the ply. That extra thickness will last nicely until you get the edging glued it.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •