Spalted Maple Log--what do I do with it?

[Rich Person]

I inhereted this interesting spalted maple block, but have questions about how I should treat it and how I should cut it. Here is a picture:

The top part is very pithy, the bottom very solid. So, how can I treat the wood to get the best results, and which direction should I cut to get the most value?

[Mark Ball]

I had some spalted maple very similar to what you have. This is what I did with it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=69441

I think the copper face of the clock goes real nice with the wood. Finish was tung oil with two coats of shellac. As far as cutting the block you have, develop a plan first and then maximize the yield you can get. I have heard you have to be careful of dust, as there is mold and spores inthe wood.

[Mike Dauphinee]

Are you interested in stopping the fungi decay of the wood? Or are you interested in what to make with it?

[David DeCristoforo]

The "problem" with spalted wood is that the best looking figure is almost always in the "worst" part of the wood. Don't forget, "spalted" is really just another word for "rotting". That's why people like Krenov who are big fans of spalted wood resaw good pieces into veneers and apply them to solid substrates. Bookmatching these veneers can provide some amazing figures. Of course you need to handle the pieces very carefully and it's not always easy to get the"punky" parts smooth.

[Greg Cole]

Depending on the "punk" level... you might be ok with it as a solid board all depends. I've had good luck with some spalted material that way, and also lost a few boards to being "punks". Also if the woods isn't fully dry, I'd let it dry out for sure. I've stickered some and let'em hang out in a room with a dehumidifier to speed up the drying.
The wood hardeners etc aren't going to make what's now "punk" into "rock" solid either... if it's really soft in the "punky" areas the veneer slicing will be a rough go.
I like spalted woods and have done well with some spalted maple stuff including a hall table made of all spalted maple, but usually I use it for drawer fronts, book matched door panels etc.
Like so many things 'round here, the answer contains "it depends".

Greg

[Brodie Brickey]

Rich,

Unless you have your heart set on a small box. I'd make a turning or two out of it. It would look great as a coffee mug or lidded boxes.

[Rich Person]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I should have given the dimensions too, as it looks smaller than it is. In the picture, it stands about 11" high and is almost 3' long.

I'm leaning toward cutting it up into veneers and seeing what I can get out. I think it is too soft on the interesting part to do anything but put it on a substrate.

For veneers, would you guys cut it the way it is sitting on the bandsaw in the picture, or would you rotate it 90 degrees on the long axis and cut through directly through the spalted part?

[David DeCristoforo]

"...would you rotate it 90 degrees on the long axis and cut through directly through the spalted part?"

No! Don't do that. Spalted logs cut like that just look like... oh wait, I can't say that here. But those black "pencil lines" would look like dark smears if you were to cut "into" them instead of "across" them... or something........anyway, trust me... Don't do that...

[Bill Wyko]

You may want to put a sealer on it. I'm not up on wood preservation. I'd also seal the ends if tou don't plan on using it very soon.