Watco Danish Oil

[Aaron Beaver]

If you use this do you need to add a top coat after it has cured. The bottle/can in comes in says it stains and protects, like you don't need to add any more coats.

Anyone just use Watco only and had any bad experiences?

[Joseph N. Myers]

If you use this do you need to add a top coat after it has cured. The bottle/can in comes in says it stains and protects, like you don't need to add any more coats.

Anyone just use Watco only and had any bad experiences?

Aaron,

(Watco does indeed stains and protects, but it stains better than it protects! Read my following comments!)

Been using Watco for 15+ years and never remember any bad experiences. Use it on all wood such as pine, poplar, oak, walnut, cherry, locust, etc. Have used it on teak but Watco puts out a teak stain that I use to use and was not bad.

Usually only sand to 150g to 180g so it has a lot of surface area to soak in. When I want a "better" stain, use wet/dry 400g sandpaper, really gives a real nice satin stain.

I can usually can get away with one coat of stain, craft items, but like to go with a couple of coats. Each additional coat really adds to the "deepness" of the stain.

Really have had no problems with blotching with pine and cherry so I've never had to use the pre-conditioning stuff. But maybe I've been lucky (most of my wood is 10-20 years air dried stuff).

If I need better protection (Watco doesn't offer much), I use a top coat of wax, in my case, Briwax. If I need a filler, I use Famowood --- seems to be compatible with Watco.

I have used Watco's Wipe-On-Poly a couple of times and really liked it. Unfortunately, once you use it, got to remove all the air from the can or use that bioxigin (sp) to keep the air off of it, or it will turn "rock hard", DAMHIKT.

As far as I'm concerned, Watco Danish Oil is pretty much foolproof, cost effective, easy to apply, quick and provides a real nice finish. There are a lot better finishes out there, especially if you have the time, money, space, equipment, etc. So unless you are doing high end furniture or pieces that need a lot of protection, you'll probably be quite happy with Watco.

BTW, this is one of those 80%/20% things, i.e., you can get 80% of the job done (stain, protection, etc) with 20% of the work. To get the remaining 20% done takes 80% of the work!

HTH, Joe

[Aaron Beaver]

Thanks Joe,

Like you mentioned, I like how it applies and how easy it goes on. I have not tried the Watco wipe on poly yet, I have only ever used water based poly's. I was asking about protection because I really don't want to add it to this project, unless I absolutely have to.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...6&d=1196113926

[Rob Amadon]

Watco Danish Oil is an oil/varnish blend that is 65% mineral spirits. It should give you adequate protection for the piece you are doing. I can't see paying someone to mix oil, varnish and mineral spirits together for me and acting like it is some mysterious finish though.
Rob

[Richard DiCerb]

I have been using the Watco blends for many years mostly on Mahogany, I usually add about 15% polyureathane. pretty much a bulletproof system,keep wet for about 10 minutes and wipe off. I just recently tried the new Danish restore product on a 2 year old african mahogany kitchen and it worked wonderful. It was not as potent smelling
as the original mix ,and they even mention on the can " a nice lemon smell", not reallyl. I always wait till it is a day the windows can be open.

[Howard Acheson]

>> If you use this do you need to add a top coat after it has cured.

Watco Danish Oil is intended as a complete finish. It's designed to be an in-the-wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the grain rather than a smooth finish like you get with a varnish, shellac or lacquer. It's what is called an oil/varnish mixture. You can make your own by mixing equal parts of your favorite varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.

Some overcoat the Watco with varnish but if that is your intent, it is less expensive just to wipe on a coat of boiled linseed oil and let it dry 48 hours. Then you can apply a couple of coats of varnish and you will have a nice looking, smooth surfaced finish.

[Tom Kelley]

Aaron, I use Watco Clear Danish Oil (three coats) followed by rubbing with 0000 steel wool (lightly,just scare it) and then a couple of coats of Briwax (clear) on Cherry. It comes out beautiful. Smooth as a baby's backside.

[Don Kondra]

You can also wet sand with Watco on the second coat to fill the grain.

Cheers, Don.

[Fred Floyd]

I built an entertainment center using Watco over oak and oak plywood. This was 25 years ago. The unit has survived all the rigors kids abuse, etc. The wood looks fine, but the finish is dull.

On projects where I want a shiny finish, I've found that Watco is good at providing the color I want. After that, I have wiped on Polyurethane (2-3 coats). I did my desk this way and it looks like new after 10 years. This is my finish of choice for any projects out of oak.

I agree with others here that danish oil is a versatile finish by itself. It's relatively foolproof on pourous woods like oak. Woods like maple that are hard and relatively closed grained do not the stain very well. In this case, gel stains seem to work better for me.

[lowell holmes]

I use Deft Danish Oil. It has more varnish in it than other Danish oils. It builds a hard finish that will stay with you. I was introduced to it at Homestead Heritage, a woodworking school near Waco, Texas. I use the Deft Danish Oil in lieu of wipe on poly.

[Matt Uchida]

I am using Danish oil on 2 Monkeypod tables I am making and I was wondering how many coats of the stufff I could use. I know im going to put at least 3, I think thats what the can says to do, but past that I am not sure how it will turn out.

When I used Tru Oil gunstock oil I found that a few coats wiped smooth would leave a more natural finish but 4+ coats would leave a shiny coat and you couldnt really feel wood anymore. Not plastic like but more than jsut wood.

That stuff is thicker though and I am wondering if Danish oil will start to get a thicker layer like that with multiple additions. And if so at what point does that start to happen?

I want the table to have some protection from kids and eating but not to turn out like a plastic shell as with poly urathane. I have been doing the legs for now, on coat 3 and it hasnt started to galze over or anything.

[Scott Holmes]

Danish oils are oil/varnish blends.

You can't really build a film it is very soft and would get wrinkled like a prune if you left a film on the wood. It is an IN-THE-WOOD finish.

[Matt Uchida]

Danish oils are oil/varnish blends.

You can't really build a film it is very soft and would get wrinkled like a prune if you left a film on the wood. It is an IN-THE-WOOD finish.

Ahh, so I shouldnt try to add on too many layers? I am on my third layer on the legs. Should I stop there or a few more? I want to make sure the wood is protected. I know it wont really protect from dings and stuff from children and plates on the table but I want to make sure it doesnt get water damaged, bug eaten, etc.

[Scott Holmes]

Oil/ varnish blends do a reasonable job protecting from spills, etc.

You will want to use placemats and coasters for wet glasses etc.
Make sure any spill is cleaned up right away.

[Casey Gooding]

I think the point Scott was trying to make was that you need to wipe off the excess. Don't let it sit thick on the wood or you'll have a mess.