Question about using boiled linseed oil.

[Bryan Berguson]

The author of an article I read in a back issue of Wood Magazine used boiled linseed oil (blo) followed by 2-3 coats of varnish. I'm trying the blo for the first time on a butternut blanket chest that I'm making. I plan on letting it dry at least 4 days.

My question is: Can I use oil based polyurethane instead of varnish for the following coats?

Another question: I have but have no intentions of using water base poly over the blo. Could it be used?

Thanks in advance.

Bryan

[Travis Porter]

I have used poly and wb lacquer over BLO without issues. The BLO needs to be thoroughly cured though. I waited two weeks before finishing (just because of other obligations).

[Howard Acheson]

>> Can I use oil based polyurethane instead of varnish for the following coats?

Oil based polyurethane is varnish. It's just a varnish made with urethane resin or with some urethane resin added. All oil based poly is really oil based polyurethane varnish.

[Don Selke]

You can let the BLO cure. Let your nose determine if it is cured. If you can smell the oil, chances are that it is not cured. If you are not sure if it is cured, make the first coat de-waxed shellac which will seal the BLO.

[Jim Becker]

Bryan, one other thing...don't put the oil and varnish on the inside of the case. Just use shellac in there if you want it finished. The varnish will off-gas "forever" and that smell will get into the stuff you store in the chest. If you already put it in there, seal it with shellac.

[Bryan Berguson]

Wow, thanks for all the great advice. I will post some pictures after I put it together. It's getting close...

Jim,

I didn't finish the inside but I wasn't sure why! Thanks for clearing it up.

Bryan

[George Bregar]

You can use H20 poly over BLO or any oil based stain...just seal it with a 2# cut of de-waxed shellac. Perhaps this is what DOn was saying.

[Bryan Berguson]

I'm going to experiment with some of these suggestions and see how they turn out. I went ahead and put the oil poly over the blo to get the project done for Christmas and it turned out "okay".

I'm completely fed up with brush on poly though and am ready to try the wipe on poly. I swear the brush on stuff will show runs on a completely flat piece of wood no matter how careful or thin you put it on! Anybody recommend a brand of the wipe on/gel poly?

Bryan

[Mike Dauphinee]

I'm completely fed up with brush on poly though and am ready to try the wipe on poly. I swear the brush on stuff will show runs on a completely flat piece of wood no matter how careful or thin you put it on! Anybody recommend a brand of the wipe on/gel poly?

Bryan

One of the easiest to use is Waterlox. Get the gloss formula and just wax with 4/0 SW if you want less gloss.

[Rob Amadon]

Waterlox isn't a polyurethane varnish. It is a phenolic resin varnish. It is however a superior choice in almost all situations compared to poly.

Bryan, Maybe you should look at your frustration with poly as a sign from the finishing gods that it is time for you to advance past the polyeverythane stage in your finishing. Their are many different kinds of great finishes for furniture, poly barely makes the list.

Rob

[Sue Wise]

Another option if you really want to use poly is to thin it with mineral spirits. Now you can either wipe with a cloth or brush. If it is thin, the poly should flow so you will not have problems with brush marks but you may still have problems with runs.

As far as the gel poly. My experience with it is that it is great. However, you will need to put more coats on because it will be thinner than brushing the liquid poly.

[Jim Becker]

Their are many different kinds of great finishes for furniture, poly barely makes the list.

I'm one of many on record that polyurethane is pretty much never on my furniture finishing list...great for floors, however. The alkyd and phenolic varnishes, if one wants oil-based, offer so much more clarity and pretty much identical performance in that "durability" thing that folks worry about. But personally, I love shellac!

OP, on the subject of wipe-on varnishes, make your own. Don't pay the manufacturer more for the priviledge of buying a finish that is just thinned with mineral spirits. Take the oil based varnish of your choice (even the evil poly... ) and thin it 50/50 with MS. Instant wiping varnish.

[Bryan Berguson]

Ahh, NOW we're getting somewhere! This is the information I was looking for!

Mike - I think I will try the Waterlox. The price scared me at first, which is stupid considering what the wood cost in the first place. Not to mention tool cost, my time... The finish is the last thing I should "cheap out" on!

Rob - But what am I going to do with 4 1/2 gallons of poly I have left over? Just kidding, it's only 1/2 quart.

Sue & Jim - So you're saying turn that 1/2 quart into a full quart to make it last longer? I hear what you're saying but I think I'll use it up on some kids cabinets I need to build.

You folks are great and I really appreciate the lessons!

Bryan

[Sue Wise]

I am with Jim as it concerns poly. I have never used it on furniture. I did use the gel poly on my baseboards and some other trim for the house.

If I wanted a varnish like poly, I would use Waterlox or a homemade varnish/oil blend.

-Sue

[Jay Jolliffe]

Has anyone tried a wipe on finish called Good Stuff. It's a wipe on finish thats good for counters & other projects. I've used it on two counter tops & it looks great. The more coats that you do the shinier it gets & it doesn't give a thick build up like poly. It's made by a butcher block company & you can get it at Grizzley.