Morning...
I got this PM from CF this morning asking a question about my SC 18" BS blade changes. I decided to open a quick thread to answer the question to allow anyone that has one to grab a few ideas that I used to make an excellent BS even better.
Message:
changing wider blades on SC 18" bandsaw
You mentioned in a recent post that you have the SC 18". I was wondering if you've tried mounting blades wider than half an inch or so, and whether you had to remove the blade guard to do so.
On mine, the blade guard is close enough to the guides that I need to remove it to mount 3/4" and wider blades. I'm seriously considering cutting it back so that the left edge is in line with the blade. It would only protect on one side, but would make blade changes much easier.
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I do not have to remove the blade guard to install a wide blade. I run a 3/4" Wood-slicer on my saw dedicated to re-saw.. rip and tenons. I cut curves.. plastics.. etc. with smaller blades on my smaller BS. But the front of the blade guard mentioned has not been altered in order to change blades quickly.
But.. with that said and assuming you are have large hands.. etc., I wouldn't hesitate to cut off the left front portion of the guide to get better clearance as that portion serves no "major" role in safety, IMO. Additionally, the first thing I did was to cut off the bottom 3" of the blade guard so it ends just above the upper bearings.
As on most saws, the guide blocks visibility of the bearing and cut line and makes getting to the upper bearing adjusters a minor pain. There is no purpose served by having the guide below the upper bearings even though about all BS's do including the Euro's. The MM 16 is a classic example with it's guide which their techs affectionately call an "armadilla tail" as it telescopes down well below the upper bearings.
Not necessary.. but has to threre to meet Euro safety standards to get exported to the U.S. Eric at MM recommended.. cut it off and I agree. The Pacific Rim saws extend them also to avoid liability issues. Again.. the solution IMO is to cut off the extra as it doesn't present a safety issue and does create a problem with line of sight and bearing adjustment.
Also.. anyone that has the original version of the saw can get larger thumb screws for the bearing adjusters by calling Steel City and asking. And I will mention the PITA set screw that is underneath the original model that locks adjustment for the lower bearing.. you can't locate and insert an allen head without a flash-light. That was replaced by suggestion of a customer () on the latter models.
Solution on early is go to a good hardward store (or Reid Supply Co. on-line) and purchase either a thumb screw or knurl head M 8 and replace the set screw. The other thumb screw adjusters are M 6, BTW.
Also.. if you have an early owners manual, there is now an addition that explains fine adjustment that can be had from SC with a phone call. I hope any that have the BS can find use of this info. As you know if you do have it.. it comes off the crate as a fine saw and almost ready to go. But.. there is not a BS made that some quirks should be ironed out on and that includes the "Itallion Stallions" and there small blade issues.
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
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Originally Posted by Chris Friesen
