Stair tread installation questions

[Spencer Hochstetler]

I've searched for a thread that addresses my questions completely, but came up short. So, another stair tread thread now exists on Sawmill Creek.

I'm installing oak treads and risers on a previously carpeted staircase. The 2'x10's are in reasonable shape and I will be leaving them in place. I plan to put several beads of construction adhesive on the 2'x treads and then nail the hardwood treads and risers in place, cutting to fit from top to bottom.

The treads are in use daily as we are living in this house with 2 young kids and our bedrooms are upstairs. Ideally, I'd like to install everything pre-finished with at least 1 coat of sealer and 1 coat of polyurethane on the back and sealer + 2 coats poly on the tops. However, I've never installed anything prefinished that I then later had to custom fit, piece by piece. For furniture, I will dry fit the whole thing, then glue up, then finish. I'm finding it hard to imagine that I can dry fit the whole staircase (will all the imperfections, there WILL be some shimming involved), finish, then install without any further cuts.

Now the questions:

1. Will finishing the backs cause my gluing plan to fail? i.e. I won't be gluing to exposed wood pores, but sealed wood.

2. Will exposed edge and end grain if/when I have to cut to fit render the prefinishing a moot step?

3. I'm sure I have more questions, but I'm blanking right now.

Thanks for continuing to help on this house!

[Craig Thompson]

Spencer,

I have had to face the same questions when I did the same project in my place. Unfortunately... I didn't know anything about 'the creek' then.

Anyhow...

1) Finishing the back of the treads would probably be a bad idea. The raw lumber, especially oak.. nice and porous, will soak up the adhesive better. (P.S. I used the "PL polyurethane", and my treads have not moved. Just like anyother project I've used the stuff on.)

2) It was a longer process, but I actually did prefit everything. I don't think it really took me much longer. Since in my staircase I was trapped on both sides... I wanted to make sure that the sides where sealed well. I have a dog that loves the lake.... and being down stairs.. so I new it would need it.

[Spencer Hochstetler]

It was a longer process, but I actually did prefit everything.

You prefit the entire staircase before driving the first nail? If it weren't for the finish question that I have (thanks for your thoughts) I'd usually prefit as I went, fitting the next piece after one was solidly attached and so on...

[Craig Thompson]

I will probobly make myself out as the idiot I am... but, here is a pic of what I did. In attempts to 'simplify' covering up a nasty old staircase that originally had carpet that I ripped out the day I moved in. I prebuilt my treads with a 2.5 'lip' to cover up the front and top of the original treads. This allowed a .25" H void that I was able to use as a way to hide the slip fit riser.

So I was able to prefit each tread ahead of time, because each step was essentially independant. Might not be the best 'method' of perfection but it worked for covering up a standard old staircase.

I guess this might only work if you like the look of a nice 'heavy' tread... But it fit for the look we wanted.

[Charles Cannon]

If you apply the oak over the existing steps will that make the first step too high and last step low? Maybe the removel of the carpet and pad will keep it in balance.
Cannon

[Richard Wolf]

If you apply the oak over the existing steps will that make the first step too high and last step low? Maybe the removel of the carpet and pad will keep it in balance.
Cannon

This will be an issue if you have not addressed it in some manor. I don't make it a habit of prefinishing stair parts but can understand your reason to want to.
I think if you prefinish your treads while they are oversized, trim and install, and do your touch ups after the kids are in bed, you should be able to handle this situation. I'm sure you and your wife can walk up the middle of the stairs.
If I can help you in any way, please contact me or ask away.

Richard

[Spencer Hochstetler]

If you apply the oak over the existing steps will that make the first step too high and last step low? Maybe the removel of the carpet and pad will keep it in balance.
Cannon

I've solved most of that problem by virtue of installing hardwood flooring where there was none previously on both the bottom landing and the upstairs hallway.

[Spencer Hochstetler]

I don't make it a habit of prefinishing stair parts but can understand your reason to want to.

Am I correctly inferring that you've not had problems with cupping (or something else) as a result of finish only being applied to one side? If that's the case, I may buck the conventional wisdom that I've been reading and leave the back sides unfinished for both saving time and better glue. Or do you go ahead and finish the backside before installation and then the exposed side after installation?

[Richard Wolf]

In twenty years of stairbuilding, I don't recall ever seeing anyone finish the underside of stairs.
OTHO, I would prefer to see you glue and screw the treads down instead of nail, but that is a small point.

Richard

[Spencer Hochstetler]

Thanks Richard. I supposed ubiquitous HVAC systems have rendered huge humidity swings much less common these days. I may go ahead and put two long trim screws at each side of the tread and put a few nails in the middle. I should be able to install plugs, flush cut them, and touch them up after the kids go to bed. But then again, the best place to screw them down would be where the most traffic is, right? Ugh. Remodeling can be frustrating when the need to live in a house gets in the way.