Bandsaw blade movement

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have a Rikon 10-347 bandsaw that is particularly wonderful for green wood log cutting for bowl turning ( 19”resaw). The manual says to run the blade centered on the wheel (flat tires). I’m cutting with a 1/2” Lenox Diemaster blade. After a while when cutting green wood gunk builds up on the blade and it starts to move forward 2-3+ mm on the wheel so that the thrust bearing is no longer in play as it should be. After I scrape off most of the buildup it moves back a little but not completely until I fully clean the blade. Anybody have any suggestions to minimize or prevent this movement? I also scape the tires as needed but that does not make much of a difference.

[STUART Robertson]

Material being compressed onto the blade and tyres by the bearing type guides effectively crowning the tyres causing it to track....maybe.
Better dust extraction, some kind of stick lube or even replace guides
with ceramic.

[Edward Weber]

Eliminate the buildup, eliminate the movement.
We've just been discussing this in another thread.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....g-with-bandsaw

[Geoff Crimmins]

Things like this tend to happen when cutting green wood with ball bearing guides. You could check to see if Space Age Ceramics sells ceramic guide blocks that can be retrofitted to your saw. Guide blocks will scrape the gunk off your bandsaw blade. Ball bearing guides tend to compress all of the gunk onto the blade, and also sometimes seize and stop rotating because of the moisture and resins in the wet wood.

[Richard Coers]

A blade NEVER has be made to be forced somewhere to cut. Is it cutting fine forward? Then keep running it and don't worry. The internet has instructed people there is only one way to run a blade. How did we ever use a bandsaw before YouTube?