Cheap Bandsaw for Resawing

[John TenEyck]

From my observations side guides are of almost no importance on a bandsaw that can adequately tension a wider blade (1" or more. Maybe 3/4", too, but I've never used one.) that is set up to cut straight. On saws that can only tension a 1/2" blade, but still put adequate tension on it, then guides start to become important. With saws that can't apply enough tension, like my 14" Delta, guides indeed are critical to getting straight cuts.

What's adequate tension. 20 ksi, minimum, and 25 ksi is better. My Delta can barely muster 12 ksi on a 1/2" blade. My larger Grizzly has no trouble applying 25 ksi on a 1" blade.

Saws that are robust enough to put 25 ksi on a 1" blade make resawing so much easier, almost trivial.

John

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm not seeing a whole lot on the used market. The Laguna LT16 SEC (Meber) and a Mini Max E16 (Centauro) have popped up. Both look to be in really good condition and have some accessories (the Laguna has a power feeder). Both have 2.5 hp motors. But, a new Grizzly G0513 (currently on sale) is the same price. Ony 2hp, but one more inch (16 vs. 17) and with a warranty. Which makes the used ones kind of hard to swallow. Plus, I'm not reading a lot of stellar reviews on either the Laguana or Mini Max. Or really any information at all. They seem to be models everyone avoided. Beyond those, I see a ton of used bandsaws that are being sold for the same price as new, which makes zero sense to me.

I've also found a couple of large, 3 phase bandsaws. But there's no way I could fit one in my garage, let alone get it on or off a trailer. And they all look like they need a good bit of work and aren't really any cheaper. I've found a handful of bandsaws that have everything I need at 50% off new prices or less... but are heavily rusted from being stored outside in the elements for possibly years. Which means after all of the work restoring them, it would probably be cheaper to buy new. And soooo many meat bandsaws. Which makes sense, I guess. We have more cows than trees here.

That Grizzly goes off sale in a few days, but I think I might pass and just keep looking. I'm not in a huge rush. I've gotten by this long without one. I'm sure there will be more sales in the not-too-distant future. And I'm betting someone who's a bit more reasonable in their pricing will be selling a nice bandsaw sooner or later. One of the tricks that I've learned to get the best deal when buying used is to have both lots of cash and time on your hands.

[Warren Lake]

Always saw bandsaws mostly italian at auctions for 750.00 to maybe 1,200.00. they were working in production at the time and most needed nothing. All were three phase.

[Edward Weber]

From my observations side guides are of almost no importance on a bandsaw that can adequately tension a wider blade (1" or more. Maybe 3/4", too, but I've never used one.) that is set up to cut straight. On saws that can only tension a 1/2" blade, but still put adequate tension on it, then guides start to become important. With saws that can't apply enough tension, like my 14" Delta, guides indeed are critical to getting straight cuts.

What's adequate tension. 20 ksi, minimum, and 25 ksi is better. My Delta can barely muster 12 ksi on a 1/2" blade. My larger Grizzly has no trouble applying 25 ksi on a 1" blade.

Saws that are robust enough to put 25 ksi on a 1" blade make resawing so much easier, almost trivial.

John

I'm once again in the same camp.
My guides will probably never wear out because they hardly ever turn.
If I see one of the bearings start to move, I know I'm putting too much feed pressure on the stock or the blade is starting to wear.

IMO. If you understand them, bandsaws are an easy machine to set up and run straight, true and parallel. I never found it anywhere near as daunting as many here seem to portray.

[Warren Lake]

set up the rear wheel should not be turning, when cutting and putting pressure on it it should be turning.

[Tom Trees]

Good call to wait it out and look for a more modern design with more adjustability than the very old Meber, and one with cast iron wheels, IMO.
Worth noting regarding the "lesser" SNA/Star line, (not the same as posted earlier) are more common, if you can find a 500mm sized saw,
the wheels will likely be the disc type rather than spoked, but the same as earlier,
I believe you may have to look into motor size as mentioned, if wanting more than 2hp.

Should either of these frequently used in business Italian machines pop up, the chances of the original vulcanized real rubber still remaining,
will likely be higher than with other modern saws...
(others who use something in between rubber and urethane, that is)
and as such, will likely have damage, hence the bargain element, which simply need a little dressing up again.
I take it the SNAC 540 saws are getting a bit large, but I wouldn't dismiss those either TBH.
Someone posted a real old previous model (1983 vintage) of this last week, though it had a non adjustable lower wheel like the Meber,
which I hadn't seen before, I'd avoid those.

If not wanting such a hassle with working on a machine, then I suggest finding one running with a wide(ish) blade,
And as with any used saw, a good hands on feel and listen for noise without a blade installed for sounds of a worn bearing journal, which might give a clunk noise.
That's the biggest issue one might have to face damage wise, and apart from that worth working on, specifically for someone who wants a bargain,
as chances are from saws made by any manufacturer, the ones getting sold won't be as nice as the ones which don't.
Nothing guaranteed with new either, as nobody's making anything like the specific era C0500 I posted earlier, though there are foolproof design Meber saws out there too
which feature both lower wheel and motor adjustability, though not looked to be sure such a 500mm wheeled Meber exists.
Edit, I see they do exist, but might be a bit heavier than an equivalent sized ACM saw.
Meber SR500.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/cHHwP0Yz/Meber-SR500.jpg



All the best
Tom

[Warren Lake]

Tom so what type of tires are on my 1962 Wadkin DR? Still in the graveyard, pretty sure its original tires.

[Tom Trees]

Not sure if manufacturers used anything else but real rubber on saws older than whenever, not a clue, but I'm sure it would be documented on OWWM
if not here.
I only have interest in capable saws in which I can move really...well, I might be partial to having interest in some of the larger Italian saws with foolproof designs also,
as most make/made a good range of sizes.
and of the lighter weight Wadkin's, two flavours of 500mm wheels look moveable and very decent to me, though largely the same design as we see today compared.
Certainly not something to dismiss IMO.
$_86.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/FsDmHvJp/86.jpg
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Here's some examples of the ACM star/SNA 500, badged by Felder, who also sold a FB440 at one time,
(I think Felder might've dropped the smaller lines of Italian saws recently)
These have solid wheels compared to the x40 SNAC series.
(though Felder's x40's, or possibly Laguna unsure if they also have also badged x40 series, from say a decade ago...not looked, but it might be a different story than today)
That said, I'm unsure if you can get the x40 series with solid disc type wheels optional or only now, as the SNA/Star line was dropped, (parts still available)
whether that's standard or no more, I haven't looked that up, Laguna's new ones are solid from what I've seen.

This 500mm wheeled machine is about 200kg, so with some decent casters and dependent on your floor, might be very reasonable, or slightly an annoyance,
but then again it could be said, perhaps with any saw, it might have you considering logistics, like a bit of a makeover to the shed!.

Here's something what might just be about bargain aged, (with original rubber still remaining)
The older FB 500.
Older felder fb500 2.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/cCfcJ38r/Older-felder-fb500-2.jpg

I think the mitre slot is standard on these, and Laguna saws are specified with deeper slots
Older fb500 standard table.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/jdTXxdmV/Older-...dard-table.jpg

And perhaps another reason such a saw might be had for a lesser sum than other saws, the motor might be a tad underpowered at 2hp
Older fb500 sticker.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/QtrBQVph/Older-fb500-sticker.jpg

That is... for someone who's not looking for the newer version
Newer fb500.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/kXhBjTxj/Newer-fb500.jpg

With 4hp motor, that is.
Newer fb500 label.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/KYtj8FCV/Newer-fb500-label.jpg

I'll leave out the Laguna LT saws, as my browser doesn't work for most USA websites, and I likely wouldn't be able find out motor details through the years.
Not to say I've documented things fully with Felder's line, things could be differing in the USA, just making note of what I guess is likely the case there.

Though posting the snazzier of the two might indeed inspire, should they stumble across something fairly similar in need of a paint job,
and don't wish to buy two colours.

Good luck on the hunt!
Tom

[John Kananis]

Jimmy, congrats on your diamond in the rough... skip the shop vac idea though. Bandsaws are one of those machines that frustrate even dc users (sometimes) with the about of dust created, especially when resawing.