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Thread: Height adjustable bench

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fargo North Dakota
    Posts
    353
    I really like my Noden kit I bought. I based my bench design from an old magazine but I can’t remember which one. The “base” is a beefy cabinet on a frame and the top is a torsion box. I could see if I can find the article if you’re interested.
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    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Cramer View Post
    I really like my Noden kit I bought. I based my bench design from an old magazine but I can’t remember which one. The “base” is a beefy cabinet on a frame and the top is a torsion box. I could see if I can find the article if you’re interested.
    I've been thinking about doing this with my Noden leg set. Do you still have the threaded rods in the back, or does the cabinet provide the necessary rigidity?
    --Mike Roberts

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fargo North Dakota
    Posts
    353
    The top of the cabinet is 2 2/4” plywood with dados cut to make a bore for the threaded rod. The threaded rod goes through the lower base.
    My woodworking theory: Measure with a micrometer, Mark with chalk, Cut with an ax.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,894
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Roberts View Post
    I've been thinking about doing this with my Noden leg set. Do you still have the threaded rods in the back, or does the cabinet provide the necessary rigidity?
    You don't have to use the threaded rod in stretchers if you have a solid cabinet, but I"ve seen it done both ways. Although I originally intended to put a cabinet under my main bench (original all-metal Noden Adjust-A-Bench) I abandoned that for some reason. For the "Craftsman Hardware Kit" version I use for my aux bench (down-draft/pocket screw/assembly/material transport) I also did not do a cabinet. But given that the threaded rod would complicate the build, I'd seriously consider not using them and make sure that the fixed portion of the Noden end panels were solidly anchored to the cabinet carcass so there would be no racking.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    186
    Check auctions for used scissor lift tables. I see pneumatic and electric lift tables (lots of Southworth) go for pretty cheap routinely and are usually rated for 1000lbs and up. I picked one up years ago for under $200 and built a 4x8 work surface for it and can sit or stand on either end with virtually no deflection.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by John Pendery View Post
    Check auctions for used scissor lift tables. I see pneumatic and electric lift tables (lots of Southworth) go for pretty cheap routinely and are usually rated for 1000lbs and up. I picked one up years ago for under $200 and built a 4x8 work surface for it and can sit or stand on either end with virtually no deflection.
    My boss picked up a Presto scissor lift table for like $100. It was extremely heavy, but rock solid. They're great if you need one. We didn't. He has a habit of buying anything that's "a good deal", and then throwing it out or giving it away a couple of years later because we need the space more than a tool that never gets used.

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