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Thread: Chopping Some Mortices This Week

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,787

    Chopping Some Mortices This Week

    Before laying out I sand to 300. This is especially helpful on oak which wants to steer the line. Layout is with a ballpoint pen. This is a new tool for me. It makes a bold line. I made a paper template, from a manila folder, one of my favorite materials.

    I've drilled 5 holes from one side and 3 from the other. Three leaves enough bridging to prevent splitting out inside the double mortice. After the first is chopped I drill the other two holes.

    The red clamp (and caution) prevent blowing out the end.


    Prep for a mortice.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Bender; 02-02-2024 at 5:23 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,792
    My hat's off to you Tom, but I found out that power tools make that a much easier job. Keep the Ibuprofen nearby.

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    978
    I find using a sharp layout knife and a knife wall prevents wandering mortise lines/walls. I use a ball point pen to accentuate the knife wall, just so I can see what I am doing, but its the knife wall that rules.
    Regards,

    Tom

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,498
    Here is a morticing guide I designed and built. From my website:



    Morticing Guide






    Paul Sellers created a set of saw guides with different offsets for the beauty shoulder. My version is similar, with a few exceptions:


    1. (1) The fixture adjusts for any offset (it is not a fixed distance from the edge), replacing several fixtures with one.
      (2) It is held in a face vise, but the chopping takes place on the bench (in my case, over a leg). Paul chops his in the vise (not so good for the life of the vise?).
      (3) The fence also acts as a hold down, preventing the work piece to be lifted by the mortice chisel.

      The front ..



      The rear …


      The fixture is simply a long fence with a fine sandpaper as non-slip, against which the stretcher is clamped, and a short sliding fence, which will act as the depth control.

      The marked mortice ..




      Place the stretcher on the bench and drop the fixture on top of it. Clamp the fixture in the bench …



      Now adjust the sliding fence alongside the registration side of the mortice …



      Clamp the stretcher against the long fence and begin chopping with the chisel against the sliding fence ..



      The aim here is to achieve perpendicular sidewalls.






    1. Another way to use this fixture is to drill out the waste, and use the sliding fence to pare the remaining waste ..





      Regards from Perth

      Derek







    September 2022

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    Derek that's a nice fixture. The flat topped cap screws look amazing, and are those washers stainless? Nice looking tools set a high standard for the work.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,498
    Thanks Tom. The washers are stainless but the cap screws are simply anodised steel.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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