Milling S2S 4/4 lumber

[Brian Runau]

Is it correct to say that S2S that is actually 13/16" is 4/4? I have had trouble with this for projects. I have a Grizzly G0586 8" jointer and do pretty good not milling wedges on it. Some of the lumber I have purchased from my local supplier, Northwest Lumber in Indianapolis, has been problematic.

When I have brought it home and it is acclimated for a few weeks and I start to break it down by length then cut the widths and it releases the internal stresses. I have had some problems with their S2S not having enough material getting it flat on one side, letting it sit overnight and then flattening the first side again, just skimming it, then planing it to 3/4". Some time I wind up not having enough material getting it down to 3/4". I do my best to pick out flat boards and they are flat, but there can be some twist or other stuff in the board even though it is S2S. I have gotten in the habit of purchasing rough sawn 4/4 since this doe not cause issues. has enough material for me to mill it.

Is this me?

Thanks.

Brian

[Jim Becker]

My opinion is that if you need to flatten, buying S2S so close to your final dimension is not really going to work well for exactly the reason you describe. S2S is offered to "avoid" the flattening and thicknessing steps, IMHO. As an alternative to the S2S, I'd choose "hit or miss" skim planed to get lumber that needs less stuff removed while still permitting you to flatten and thickness with quality to the actual thickness you need. (I personally work from rough lumber the majority of the time)

[Brian Runau]

My opinion is that if you need to flatten, buying S2S so close to your final dimension is not really going to work well for exactly the reason you describe. S2S is offered to "avoid" the flattening and thicknessing steps, IMHO. As an alternative to the S2S, I'd choose "hit or miss" skim planed to get lumber that needs less stuff removed while still permitting you to flatten and thickness with quality to the actual thickness you need. (I personally work from rough lumber the majority of the time)

Thanks. Me too on the rough lumber. is it correct to call S2S 4/4? Bought some plain sawn white oak from a mill 2 hrs south of me and I came up short and need 5 or 6 pcs to finish and the local guy only has S2S which is problematic. I will drive 1 hr north to get the rough sawn stuff I need. Thanks Jim. Brian

[mike stenson]

It's fine to call it 4/4, since they also declare that it's S2S.

[Michael Burnside]

I personally would not call S2S lumber just 4/4. I would call it "S2S 4/4" lumber. That said, I don't think anyone would be confused if you said 4/4, it's just that technically it's been milled to closer to 13/16 if you're lucky and you're likely to be paying a bit more for it.

It's hard to build fine furniture with S2S unless the lumber is really nice and straight. For small pieces, charcuterie boards, etc. it's great, but for longer pieces, IMHO it's not worth the hassle if you have the ability to mill 4/4 yourself. I do use S2S occasionally, but most of the time I start with rough lumber.

[mike stenson]

Ok, so what dimension is S2S? I've seen 4/4 - 12/4 S2S. In any case, it's really somewhat of a nominal dimension.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Thanks. Me too on the rough lumber. is it correct to call S2S 4/4? Bought some plain sawn white oak from a mill 2 hrs south of me and I came up short and need 5 or 6 pcs to finish and the local guy only has S2S which is problematic. I will drive 1 hr north to get the rough sawn stuff I need. Thanks Jim. Brian

I guess it's OK - but with the S2S, I'm not sure there is a standardized thickness - 13/16 ? 7/8? 3/4?
Kinda needs to be specified. Which obviates the value of "4/4".

On the shortage point - you and I are teamed like quarks on teeter-totter. You're underage is balanced by my overage. I never - never - want to risk being short. Especially when I get elite stuff shipped in. With rough sawn, I plan a 70% yield. I have an excellent stock of stray pieces of beautiful
QSWO, QS Sycamore; QS air-dried walnut; curly maple........It's a sickness.

[Lloyd McKinlay]

The National Hardwood Lumber Association rules for measurement and inspection of hardwood provides some guidance. Follow the link and look at page 8. https://issuu.com/nhla/docs/2015_rulebook_final

No idea if the rules have been modified in the last eight years.

[Michael Burnside]

Ok, so what dimension is S2S? I've seen 4/4 - 12/4 S2S. In any case, it's really somewhat of a nominal dimension.

Sorry, my bad, I meant to say S2S 4/4. I would not just say "4/4".

The lumber store I regularly shop at will S2S anything using their double-sided planer. It takes 3/32 from both sides, that's the ONLY option. So 13/16 for 4/4 lumber (nominally) and you can do the math for other sizes.

[mike stenson]

So yea, we agree... if they declare it as S2S, it's all good

[Michael Burnside]

So yea, we agree... if they declare it as S2S, it's all good

Yep, thanks for pointing out the error in my post. I updated the correction for posterity.

[Larry Edgerton]

Surfaced 2 sides, can be any thickness.

I buy 4/4 and have it skip planed to 15/16. The reason I do this is to make my planer knives last longer. They take all the dirt off with their rough planer. Once in a while I get some that will not make 3/4", but I just save it for drawer sides. Its just the way it is.

[John TenEyck]

4/4 must be a minimum of 1" thick after drying, and so on with thicker increments. I cut 4/4 on my bandsaw mill at 1-1/8" and it's always well over 1" after drying. Commercial mills cut it closer, I'm sure.

Skip planed can be anything the mill decides to make it. I like skip planed lumber because I get to see some of the grain and it also saves me some work to flaten/thickness it. The skip planed 4/4 I buy typically is 15/16" thick and that allows me to get 13/16" out of it, sometimes a little more if I'd like.

I pick my own boards so anything with cup, twist, etc. doesn't go on my cart. That maximizes yield when I work it.

If your supplier doesn't have flat skip planed lumber, buy rough sawn or go elsewhere.

John

[Larry Edgerton]

4/4 must be a minimum of 1" thick after drying, and so on with thicker increments. I cut 4/4 on my bandsaw mill at 1-1/8" and it's always well over 1" after drying. Commercial mills cut it closer, I'm sure.

Skip planed can be anything the mill decides to make it. I like skip planed lumber because I get to see some of the grain and it also saves me some work to flaten/thickness it. The skip planed 4/4 I buy typically is 15/16" thick and that allows me to get 13/16" out of it, sometimes a little more if I'd like.

I pick my own boards so anything with cup, twist, etc. doesn't go on my cart. That maximizes yield when I work it.

If your supplier doesn't have flat skip planed lumber, buy rough sawn or go elsewhere.

John

John, I buy from the same mill I have for thirty five years or so and they treat me good, but like you I am more cautious when buying elsewhere. I don't see the wood before it is delivered, and in that time they have only disappointed me once, some case hardened Tulip, but they made it right. I am fortunate to have such a supplier.

[Ron Citerone]

If I had a jointer and planer I would steer clear of S2S personally.