coffee table legs

[Bruce Mack]

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The table will be 36" x 23" of cherry wood, with a 16" height, no apron.
I saw this leg design online for ~$300 for 2 with a black matte finish. The product is handsome and worth the price but I want to make it of wood. The cleat should be ~1" thick or less to make it inapparent. Plywood is OK as it will not be visible.
How do I fasten a wood cleat to the tabletop and avoid crossgrain issues? I don't want a sliding dovetail. Would figure 8 fasteners work here or should I just use elongated screw holes with washers? Other suggestions? Thanks.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

Expansion washers are a possibility: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...ansion-washers

[Michael Burnside]

... should I just use elongated screw holes with washers?

This is the first thought that came to mind for me actually. I've done something similar and used slotted washers. Just search Google for "slotted washer" and you'll find a host of options, including those linked by Christian.

[Jim Becker]

Typically, threaded inserts into the wood table top's bottom and most leg systems like that have slots for the fasteners so that accounts for wood movement. Many makers also recess the flange into the bottom of the wood table so it's not ever visible, too.

[Bruce Mack]

Thanks, guys.
Jim - while the table top is heavy, the wood is only 1" thick after milling. I'll have to be sure of drill depth before trying inserts. I'm a wimp, but after removing the twist from the boards and using a jack plane to flatten the panel I can't deal with a hole coming through the face side. Maybe selective 1/4" glue-up at the insert sites to thicken the panel.
if i use screws they will be short and stout with prominent threads.

[Michael Burnside]

Thanks, guys.
Jim - while the table top is heavy, the wood is only 1" thick after milling. I'll have to be sure of drill depth before trying inserts. I'm a wimp, but after removing the twist from the boards and using a jack plane to flatten the panel I can't deal with a hole coming through the face side. Maybe selective 1/4" glue-up at the insert sites to thicken the panel.
if i use screws they will be short and stout with prominent threads.

Truthfully I would use inserts too, as suggested by Jim, though I didn't say it in my post. That said, the only threaded inserts I use are the stainless (or brass for soft woods) and fine threads. They are expensive but rock solid and have razorblade-like threads that don't bulge or distort the wood, they just slice right in. Don't get the cheap-o ones you can find for a lot less, get the exact ones I linked or the brass equivalents. You could use up to 3/4" without issue IMHO. They will be stronger than screws too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Jamie Buxton]

You might extend those flanges on top to be an entire subtop. The legs-plus-subtop will stand up by itself, and the top just sits on the subtop. The benefit of this is that none of the connections to the top are structural. They can slip around to allow the top's expansion and contraction, and not affect the structure of the table at all.

I'd be greedy, and make the subtop the full 1" thick you can allow, at least at the corners where you're making the joints to the legs. Maybe you let most of the subtop be 3/4", and augment it near the joints.

[Bruce Mack]

Thanks, Michael and Jamie. I have used brass E-Z LOK inserts and they were quality. I think I'll try 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum bar stock from Metals Depot for the "cleat" in my mock up.They will cut it to size and I can drill appropriate attachment holes to the legs and the top. I know I'm complicating things but I like the aesthetics. It should also be more sturdy than thin plywood. I'm having trouble grasping the angles needed. The maker of the steel legs recommends that the bottom of the trapezoid be 2 1/2" shorter than the top for a 15" leg height (total table height 16" with top in place). Working with 2x4s and/or drawing it to full size on kraft paper should get me there. I'll post additional photos.