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Thread: Craft cup display

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    2,781
    Shallow dados with plenty of screws from the outside, then add 1/2 x 1/2 triangular glue blocks (match the grain direction) above and below each shelf. That should be plenty stiff. Then you could add a rib under the bottom shelf instead of those metal brackets (and more glue blocks). Don't forget the handles on the ends.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    then add 1/2 x 1/2 triangular glue blocks (match the grain direction) above and below each shelf.
    Should these blocks span the width of the shelf? I like your ideas.

  3. #18
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    804
    So far, I found I really suck at making tenons. I'm sure ther are some good lessons i learned. I had to shim some of them and straighten the shoulders on a couple with the tool, achem tablesaw, we shall not speak of. Anyway, I got them all snug and i hope to have better luck with the dovetails.

  4. #19
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    So, I suck at dovetails as well. Maybe I need to do a lot more practice before sending something out into the world. Anyway, I'm going to screw this together and start practicing more instead of waiting til someone asks me to build something.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
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    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Hutchings View Post
    So far, I found I really suck at making tenons. I'm sure ther are some good lessons i learned. I had to shim some of them and straighten the shoulders on a couple with the tool, achem tablesaw, we shall not speak of. Anyway, I got them all snug and i hope to have better luck with the dovetails.
    A router plane is really good at refining tenons parallel to the surface of the board and adjusting thickness. I’m not great at sawing tenons either, but I can clean them up with a router plane with the best of them.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    Yeah, I know how to do that, I just haven't learned to leave the line. I'll keep practicing on shop stuff. This thing I'm making is now going to have clear pine sides, walnut top, maple shelves and no dovetails or mortises. Just screws and dowels. I'm disappointed in myself but I have very little experience at this so that's my goal now. More skill/practice needed!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    804
    This morning, I cut a new set of sides out of some clear pine I had on hand. I decided to try the dovetails for the top board again since I already had the walnut pins cut. I followed Paul Sellers method of chopping them and the first ones went together really well. I haven't finished the other side yet, ding ding, it's time to clean up and go to work. Hopefully, that won't happen in the new year. I applied for SS yesterday so retirement is on the horizon!

    I wanted ask if there's any way to quiet the mallet and chisel. Being pine I was tapping pretty softly but I did wake up my wife. Not that she complained but I'd like to soften the noise somehow. Quiet work is one of the draws to hand tools for me, plus the lack of clouds of sawdust.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
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    1,621
    Wood is good mallets are quieter but not a silver bullet. I also used to use a rubber mallet.
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
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    It's like living near the railroad tracks. Your wife will soon get used to it and not wake up.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    So after making this way more difficult than it needed to be, I'm finally at the glue up stage. Even though I used traditional joinery, I'm going to add screws because this isn't going to sit in a home, it's going to be in and out of trunks and craft shows. I have to go get some 2" screws.

    CoreensCupDisplay.jpg

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
    Posts
    804
    This display will hold 30 mugs. I still haven't decided how to properly set it up. It needs to angle back a little so gravity keeps the cups in place.

    I also have an idea for an improved stackable display. I may build that as I find the right material.

    2023-10-23 07.32.35.jpg2023-10-23 07.32.20.jpg



    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    Seems there's no end to the way I can screw something up. I was filling the gaps in the dovetails with CA because it's fast. Of course haste makes waste and now I have this to fix. The board stuck to my vise jaw and this happened when I took it out. I know this is not the way to fix gaps but I was in a hurry. Now what's the best way to fix it? I'm thinking chisel out a ramp and add a fresh piece.
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  13. #28
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    804
    Repair in progress. Fortunately it's on the back and will be just fine.

    I used a paring chisel to slice off a ramp and glued a fresh piece onto it. I think that once I plane it down, it won't attract the eye. We'll see in a 1/2 hour when the glue sets. I need to start finishing today.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Warwick, RI
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    804
    Done.
    Things I learned.
    1. Dowels aren't all created equal and i need a full set of drills.
    2. My dovetailing needs a lot more practice.
    3. Mortise and tenons need a lot of practice, especially for the sideways ones I did here.

    My tablesaw makes a great sharpening station and keeps me from using it. I've used it for other things that don't inclilude cutting. It's a great table.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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