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Thread: Pattern Bit

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    1/16" of an inch is going to be tough for me, my bandsaw skills aren't that good. But I get it, I'll creep up to the line with an oscillating sander and actually hit the line on the endgrain. I'll post on that Whiteside bit and how it worked out after I try it. Thanks again! Mark

  2. #17
    If you're going to that length with an oscillating spindle sander you don't need the pattern bit. My process is cut close to the line, trim with a template and then sand. However you get to the finished result, you will save time with accurate initial cutting.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2022
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    Northern Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Klika View Post
    1/16" of an inch is going to be tough for me, my bandsaw skills aren't that good. But I get it, I'll creep up to the line with an oscillating sander and actually hit the line on the endgrain. I'll post on that Whiteside bit and how it worked out after I try it. Thanks again! Mark
    Yea that should work, and remember it's just the sides of endgrain where you're really going to get the bit to bit/chatter. The other bit you bough, being a larger diameter, will be smoother regardless but just do what you can.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
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    In my last build I took the time to put my pattern bit on the shaper: Whitehill 125mm combi head (4.9 in). First, the finish was fantastic. Second, once you started feeding there were no catches or surprises, very smooth. But third, starting a cut was scary -- it feels like 5 HP could throw the piece through a wall! I've done a lot of patterns with a good quality 1/2" shear cut pattern bit in a router, and that bigger diameter really is a different game.

    Terry T.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
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    One thing you may want to check on the original is if it is still straight. I bent an ultimate trim bit(the whiteside one mentioned above) and didnt notice and had a bad time when I tried using it again. I would try and roll it slowly on a flat surface to check if it looks ok you may want to chuck it in a drill and run super slow to see if you can see runout.

  6. #21
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    I'll check that out, first thing when I change them. Thanks for the heads up. Mark

  7. #22
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    Will do, Michael. Thanks for the advice.

  8. #23
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    May 2020
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    Update: So I got the Whiteside UDC9112 and it was a big improvement with regards to tearout. Like most of you suggested, I got as close to the line as I possibly could. For me, that meant using the oscillating sander where my bandsaw cut went astray. I went right to the line, almost, on the areas with endgrain. I was happy with the results. Afterwards, I experimented, cautiously, with a ruined blank and there were still issues when I tried to cut too much material on endgrain(more that 1/8"), but for the most part it performed as advertised. Is it worth $200 for slightly more piece of mind? It was for me. Thanks again for all the help you guys gave to deal with this issue. Mark

  9. #24
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    George, I checked the original bit like you suggested. It appears to be fine. Thanks for the headsup! Mark

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Klika View Post
    George, I checked the original bit like you suggested. It appears to be fine. Thanks for the headsup! Mark
    No problem, thought id bring it up as it ruined a piece on me.

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