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Thread: How to blacken or blue screw heads?

  1. #1
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    How to blacken or blue screw heads?

    I am nearing completion of a serving tray. The handles are held in place with #8 stainless machine screws. The heads appear inside the tray but at ~5/16" diameter they shine intrusively like headlights. I cannot countersink them because they abut the dado for the bottom of the tray. Black acrylic model paint does not adhere to them. A Sharpie is not dark enough. I don't want to buy gun bluing solution or scorch them with a torch (probably wouldn't work on stainless anyway). I have Dykem blue layout on hand which would do. Is there anything else I should consider?

  2. #2
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    Um, how about using something like Caswell Stainless Steel Blackener or one of the other "like" blackeners?

  3. #3
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    Plain old black “enamel” should work fine if you rough up the head with a course sand paper. It would be much more durable than Dykem.
    Please help support the Creek.


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  4. #4
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    I can get Testors enamel at the local Michaels. I wasn't aware of Caswell. The price at Amazon is prohibitive however.
    Thanks Bruce and Brad.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    Plain old black “enamel” should work fine if you rough up the head with a course sand paper. It would be much more durable than Dykem.

  5. #5
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    It's a shame they don't sell smaller quantities:

    https://birchwoodtechnologies.com/st...kaAh7nEALw_wcB

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Mack View Post
    I am nearing completion of a serving tray. The handles are held in place with #8 stainless machine screws. The heads appear inside the tray but at ~5/16" diameter they shine intrusively like headlights. I cannot countersink them because they abut the dado for the bottom of the tray. Black acrylic model paint does not adhere to them. A Sharpie is not dark enough. I don't want to buy gun bluing solution or scorch them with a torch (probably wouldn't work on stainless anyway). I have Dykem blue layout on hand which would do. Is there anything else I should consider?
    Perhaps I'm missing something obvious, but why not just buy black oxide coated stainless screws?

    https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/18-8...ead-style~pan/

  7. #7
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    Thank you, Patrick. I hadn't thought of McMaster. If I had other items to order from them as well I could justify the cost of UPS. I think I'll 'cheap out' and try the Testors model enamel. To be continued today after doing so.
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Varley View Post
    Perhaps I'm missing something obvious, but why not just buy black oxide coated stainless screws?

    https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/18-8...ead-style~pan/

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Mack View Post
    Thank you, Patrick. I hadn't thought of McMaster. If I had other items to order from them as well I could justify the cost of UPS. I think I'll 'cheap out' and try the Testors model enamel. To be continued today after doing so.
    Wait long enough for the model enamel to dry. I've learned that letting spray paint on hardware store zinc plated ( I think) screws dry thoroughly before screwing them in makes a difference in how the paint holds up. Dry to the touch doesn't necessarily mean dry.

  9. #9
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    This is a good book on coloring metal (without painting): https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Boo...-srp1-_-title1

    Dykem blue? When I worked in a machine shop we used that for scribing and finding contact between parts. I didn't know it could be used for coloring.

  10. #10
    The Dykem blue I've used doesn't dry hard. It stays soft/gooey... Assuming this does not see dishwashing duty, I would replace the stainless screws with black oxide or use one of the stainless blacking products. Of course, remove the screws prior to treatment.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    Wait long enough for the model enamel to dry. I've learned that letting spray paint on hardware store zinc plated ( I think) screws dry thoroughly before screwing them in makes a difference in how the paint holds up. Dry to the touch doesn't necessarily mean dry.
    Thank you Curt, and everyone else. I'm just feeling my way and want only to lessen any reflection. I have coated the screw heads with Testors black and will let them dry overnight. They won't experience any abrasion or even any contact.
    I was delighted by the wealth of information provided by members/contributors.
    Last edited by Bruce Mack; 05-09-2023 at 3:27 PM.

  12. #12
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    SMC contributor Roger Wiegand has posted about his techniques for antiquing screws. I think I can track that thread down...

  13. #13
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    The other choice is to use brass screws and let them show off.
    Dyekem comes in colors including blue, red, yellow, black, green and probably some more. Search layout dye for other makes.
    Bill D.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    The other choice is to use brass screws and let them show off.
    Dyekem comes in colors including blue, red, yellow, black, green and probably some more. Search layout dye for other makes.
    Bill D.
    Cool ideas. I'm going to put the handles on. Though the photo shows some gloss, the effect is muted and not as reflective as the original.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
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    This is the trial assembly of the tray, no glue. The screw heads are now just the black of the base and the handles.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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