Proper saw set for Diston model 7

[Robert L Stewart]

I am confused as to which set to buy. This would be for a rip saw, 26".

[Scott Winners]

Short answer, for a 26" rip saw you very likely want a saw set with a dial that does from 4-12, indicating 4 to 12 teeth per inch. The other common saw set size, something like 14-22, is for backsaws like dovetail saws and carcass saws and tenon saws.

There is a few things to look at.

1. If you have a saw old enough that you are sure it is a Number 7 and not a D-7, you want to look at the base of the teeth, the gum line as it were, real careful with magnification for rust pitting before you try to set the teeth. If you see pits along there, gum disease, setting the teeth can risk snapping some of them off. This really applies to all handsaws, but the older they are the more carefully you want to look.

2. How much confidence do you have in your setting tool?

3. What material are you wanting to saw?

I have two vintage saw sets, both heavily worn. Neither is giving me as much set to each tooth as they likely did when they were new, but it is still a lot of set. On say a 6 point rip saw I would set my (worn) dial indicator to 6 and have a rip saw that works pretty good in construction lumber, but would need more set to work in green freshly felled softwood and has way more set that I want for dealing with KD hardwood.

With a well made saw like that with 6 teeth or points to the inch, in good working order, with a factory new high quality saw set, for KD hardwood, I would turn the dial to 8, set the teeth, sharpen, make a test cut and maybe turn the dial down to 7 for slightly more set and set all the teeth again before making the next test cut.

It is much easier to add a little more set than it is to take away too much set.

If the saw is also not sharp, I suggest 8 degrees of rake on each tooth for starting out. As you get proficient with the tool you can reduce the rake towards zero degrees, but starting at zero for beginners is, my opinion, to agressive a saw for beginners to develop confidence and skill.

FWIW I learned most of this from Pete Taran, user here, his website is something like vintage saw dot com I think. I have learned a lot from Mr. Taran and start on his website when I have a new to me saw sharpening problem.

[Robert L Stewart]

Thank you Scott. No doubt that I have much to learn about the task ahead.
I did a search of Pete Taran. Did he do any How to videos?

[Scott Winners]

Thank you Scott. No doubt that I have much to learn about the task ahead.
I did a search of Pete Taran. Did he do any How to videos?

I somehow doubt Mr. Taran is a darling of youtube. smiley. http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

Also a scad of voices more experienced than mine chiming in here. Sharpening a saw is not hard. The first saw you sharpen may be poorly sharpened compared to what you will soon be capable of, but it will be sharper than it was and will likely be comparable to new off the shelf current production product. Maybe find a later model "warranted superior" before you go crazy on your number 7, but you can do this; and you will be able to do it well fairly quickly. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....aws&highlight=

[Rafael Herrera]

I am of the impression that the numbers on the saw set are relative. Lower the number, lower the set and viceversa, or the other way around, I don't have mine in front of me, but that's my recollection. What set to use? suit yourself, find what works for you.

This may help too: https://www.vintagesaws.com/library/.../spring97.html

[steven c newman]

One of the Disston No.7s I have....split nuts, and only "DISSTON, No.7" for the etch no medallion. Had it sharpened last year....and the first tooth he tried to "set"...snapped. About 2nd tooth from the toe end.

Saw was before any Sons worked for Henry...so..about 1850s. It does have the nib. Looks to be a 6ppi.

Saw is quite sharp, just don't think I will try to set any more teeth.

[Pete Taran]

Robert,

My favorite saw set is the 42X because it clamps the saw before setting the tooth. However, for a saw with big teeth like your rip saw, the ordinary 42 is a good choice. You can find good examples on Ebay for $20-40. The plunger is wider which makes it good for large teeth. The trick to using it is to keep the riveted rail which is integral to the set against the saw plate while you set the tooth.

There are multiple types of Stanley 42, this is the one I'm talking about.

[Mike Allen1010]

Robert,

My favorite saw set is the 42X because it clamps the saw before setting the tooth. However, for a saw with big teeth like your rip saw, the ordinary 42 is a good choice. You can find good examples on Ebay for $20-40. The plunger is wider which makes it good for large teeth. The trick to using it is to keep the riveted rail which is integral to the set against the saw plate while you set the tooth.

There are multiple types of Stanley 42, this is the one I'm talking about.

Great example of the power and value of forum like SMC; OP just got advice from one of the few leading experts in the world on subject of great relevance to woodworkers. Bless you Pete Taran and SMC.

[Robert L Stewart]

Thank you all for some great info. Another reason why I have never missed a day on this forum in almost 13 years, such a great community!

I will look for a Stanley 42, thanks, Pete.