Veneer Replacement Technique

[Phil Mueller]

I’d have to experiment a little, but was thinking just a 3/4” frame, a bit longer than the table width with an opening in the frame that would allow you to see what your doing, but still give good support to the router base. If for example the opening is two inches wide (really just depends on the size of your router base), clamp it down, do a 2 inch area, then move it, do two more inches, etc. Not the quickest, but would get the job done.

If you have a router guide, use the guide against the outside of the table edge and do the perimeter of the veneer first.

Set the router depth to the thickness of the new veneer, plus the frame thickness, plus a hair deeper.

[Don Stauffer]

I see! Doing it in small sections allows the jig to be narrow enough to support the router on both sides. But it does seem like the frame would have to be supported on both ends to the same height no matter where the 2" area is, so it would have to sit on pieces that went all the way across the table. Something like:

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[Phil Mueller]

That’s what I was thinking. And yes, the two frame pieces that sit on the hardwood edge of your table would need to be long enough to move completely from one side to the other. You could also make the router support pieces thicker if you want a little more support.