I personally prefer the American-style guard to the Euro-guard but the biggest complaint I got about the porkchop that the Italians sourced out was not so much design but that it was such a flimsy piece of plastic and fussy to keep a consistent springback tension on. The porkchop for the F410 Nova jointers is actually really nice. Rigid, glass-reinforced, with a metal bushing for the mouting bolt. Not sure if there’s a similar option for 310mm machines but could be worth a look.
Erik
thanks for the lead. I do think the current US style guard I have is exceedingly flimsy.
me as well John. I learned to detail in LA many years ago and came home with two cans of some brand of auto paste wax. It went on, dried, hand wiped micro fiber and stuff slid well. Also parafin from the grocery storey, comes in blocks not sure what they use it for but I use that on hand planes, the difference is dramatic. I get that shop temp and humidity will have a bit of affect on it as well.
I found a can of some stuff called Sprayway last night, must have been from the old guy and not much left. Seems the same type of label as the WD stuff showing it sprayed on blades and for woodwork stuff. Still prefer a wipe on to a spray. My liquid carnuba was good but still think the wipe on paste will leave the thickest layer. I had the old stuff so long it had gone mouldy, I was still using it on cars, it was so thick it was hard to put on, then harder to remove. The gliding well while not guarding this post is about its still part of safety on a jointer. Im not sure which type of guarding I would prefer.
Just saw a video for an A3-41 where they switch to a short euro guard for edge jointing: https://youtu.be/FqdV5kvRSBM?t=267
Matt
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Jim, I brainstormed that too. Maybe DIY a "comfort-style" Euro guard, where the sections fall away, but never made it past the daydreaming stage. I think that wooden guard is a great idea. Or, buy a second extrusion and just cut it down. I believe Sam did that for the rip fence on his combo machine.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Started with the pork chop and now into the Euro set-up. The Euro guard does hit you near the nether regions when edge jointing, but using it over time you get used to it.
I have seen a person using the Euro set up procure a second guard, cut it down into shorter sections and use the one that best works with the width of board being jointed. Thinking of doing the same for my Hammer A3-41.
Yea, that was a good video.
I actually ordered my Hammer A3-41 with an extra factory blade guard, which added like $30 to my order. The plan is to cut it in half, so that when I'm using the fence at a (closer to the user side) location, I can not have to step around a 12"+ wide guard. On a slow boat from Europe. Arriving next month...
I wish they offered the folding comfort guard for the Hammer, though.
I'd like to see some data on accidents with the porkchop guards vs bridge type guards. It's always struck me as odd that a guard be designed in such a way as to politely step out the way should I thrust my fingers towards the blade.
The suv-a-matic resolves that, since it retracts downward toward the table. Downside is that it sticks out 9”
from the side of the machine.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.