Hettich hinges

[Jonathan Ames]

ADBC2C90-1F9E-4BAB-BA35-A9798DB7814E.jpeg4C803FC1-6740-4850-AAEA-8A40131A9779.jpeg88C80289-A2BC-4270-A50A-642113621F83.jpegCan someone tell me the formula for calculating the cup setback for overlay doors. I’ve tried to figure out the Hettich site’s explanation and either my education was wasted or my age as finally caught up with me. (Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYL2TbAE_dQ )

I want a 1/2” overlay using 3/4” stock thickness and I’m using the appropriate Hettich hinge for 110* opening which is practically identical to Grass or Blum or any of the other eurohinges. As you can see, I achieved the overlay by hacking it and the setback wound up at 10mm but 1) the door only opens but binds at 90* as the photo shows, and 2) there has to be a formula to calculate it. Anyone run into this before.

[Brandon Conover]

I can't find my Hettich binder, I use Blum but I would think the same would apply. Wouldn't you just use a full overlay hinge and a thicker baseplate to alter the overlay? With Blum a 0mm baseplate would be used for full overlay, but you could use a 4.5mm or 6mm baseplate to reduce overlay. I rarely find reason to change the bore position on the door, just use the appropriate baseplate. Hope this helps

[Mark Hockenberg]

Although I'm a Blum guy, I'll try to help. I glanced at some Hettich technical pdfs online and they call out cup setback based on the hinge part number. From your photos, I can see that the 10mm setback you tried is what's causing the hinge to bind. I didn't see any Hettich setbacks that high.

Do you have the part number of the hinge you're using? It could be that your hinge is the wrong part for 1/2" overlay...

[Jonathan Ames]

Thanks for your response. Unfortunately they don’t put part numbers on the hinges; at least these don’t have one. I’ll keep working on it. Someone has to know!

[Mark Bolton]

Thanks for your response. Unfortunately they don’t put part numbers on the hinges; at least these don’t have one. I’ll keep working on it. Someone has to know!

No one puts part numbers on the hinges. Even the dot matrix numbers on the cups are not accurate.

What specific hinge and plate did you buy?

[Mark Bolton]

I honestly thing your hinge bore should be 3.5 to 4mm from the door edge but not familiar with Hetitch hinges and my default looking at the profile of the hinge is that it may not be the correct hinge.

Just bore a scrap at 4mm and try it

[Adam Herman]

i think maybe there is a fundamental misunderstanding.... the back set of the cup hole is for that hinge and its not something you adjust. if you want a 1/2 in overlay, the pivot position inside the cup must be further infront of the face frame, and its a different hinge, base, or combination of them.

[Jonathan Ames]

And I think you’re right but the main idea in renovating our kitchen was to reconfigure the cabinets to gain more space. Any increase in baseplate thickness intrudes on the inside width. As I initially wrote, the Hettich video explains the measuring but to me, it solves for “d” but not for “c”. The instructor simply puts what he says is an arbitrary 4.5 number in the “c” calculation and solves, again, for “d” but to me, I’m trying to solve for “c”. Any thoughts on his methodology? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYL2TbAE_dQ

[Mark Bolton]

Agreed with Adam, the cup hole back set IS adjustable but only by small amounts, usually 1mm from most manufacturers.