Two bandsaw setup?

[Joe Lazar]

This is great, thanks all. Question though, assuming I get a larger saw dedicated to resawing (which may be out of my budget, but that's another discussion), what's the smallest bandsaw you guys roll with for the curved cuts? I see these tiny 10" models, and assume they are underpowered, and more "toys" than truly useful machine. But then again I think we all dream and spend big when often we don't have to.

Thoughts?

[Bradley Gray]

Since that you already have a 14" saw, get new guides aimed at running a small blade. I am fond of Lennox 1/8"-14T and I run them with "Cool-Blocks" - graphite guides that run tight against the blade.

Starrett makes a ball bearing guide with a groove that supports the blade which looks interesting, but I have not tried it.

[Frederick Skelly]

The smallest size that's sufficient for you will depend on how thick a board you want to cut curves in, and what kind of woods you use. The 10" Rikon gets good-enough reviews for what it is. My 12" JET cuts curves in 3-4" thick material when needed - I just slow down.

Fred

[Michelle Rich]

I have a 14" grizzly and used it to resaw for awhile..it was slow. I then decided to use the griz for curved work, and bought a rikon 325 ( pre-326). I use it to resaw. I use a 1/2 highland blade as it does everything I need. Is it fast as blazes? no. But it is fast enough to be quite useable and I don't make thousands of board feet of veneer every week. I am pleased with my choice. If you are not going commecrial, or starting a veneer business, I think your choice is reasonable and economical.

[Joe Lazar]

Thanks a bunch, Michelle. I think given my needs, keeping the 14" Delta will be the way to go. Some new guides and the right blade, and I'll be curvin' it up.

Now to make room on the shop floor...

[Marc Burt]

I have a 19” grizzly and LOATHE changing the blades. If I could spare the room at all I would absolutely buy a 14” saw for cutting curves and the like.

[Terry Therneau]

I also have 2 bandsaws, a 14" Walker Turner and a 26" Moak. It is nice to keep a small blade on the 14. If you want a bigger saw don't neglect the used market. Bandsaws were once a staple of furniture factories and have been replaced by CNC, and you can often find a good one for quite reasonable dollars ($1100 for my Moak, and the prior owner delivered it!).

Terry T

[David Powell]

I too have 2 bandsaws; a 14" Delta with the riser set up with a 1/4" blade and Carter guides for curves and a Grizzly 17" with a 3/4" carbide Laguna Resaw King. I don't miss having to stop and change blades.

Dave

[Dave Cav]

I have a MM 20" and a 14", an older, smaller version of the Grizzly G0817 14" steel frame bandsaw. The 20" has a 1" WM CT on it all the time and is used for ripping and resaw, and generally I have a 3/16 or 1/4" on the Grizzly for scroll and utility work.

(I have two table saws, too. The PM 65 generally has a fine crosscut blade and the Delta 12/14 usually has a rip blade. And don't forget the RAS...)

[Darcy Warner]

I also have 2 bandsaws, a 14" Walker Turner and a 26" Moak. It is nice to keep a small blade on the 14. If you want a bigger saw don't neglect the used market. Bandsaws were once a staple of furniture factories and have been replaced by CNC, and you can often find a good one for quite reasonable dollars ($1100 for my Moak, and the prior owner delivered it!).

Terry T

They only made about 300 of those 26" Moaks. Nice saws.

[Keith Hankins]

Yep had two for a long time. I had a 17" griz 2hp hd saw that was a one fits all. Major PIA to change over form big blade to small blade and adjust. I did that for a long time till a 1934, delta 14" came on the market for 200 bucks. I have that set up with small blade and carter blade stabilizer. Great for cutting small circles and handles most of my work now. I have the Griz set up and dialed in with a carbide 1" blade for resaw. Best of both worlds. Definitely go for it! (I've got a 16" walker turner in parts as a project saw, but may even sell that one. don't know if I can justify 3. Cheers.

[Brian Nguyen]

I have a two BS setup as well--a cheap Craftsman 14" with a 3/8 (?) blade for general and curves, and a Rikon 10-326 14" for resawing. They take up quite the footprints but I got the layouts to work okay enough to justify not having to swap blades all the time.

[Bill Adamsen]

I have had this setup for some time. Works for me. Sometimes I have to wiggle the little Delta a bit further out into the shop and then wiggle it back when done.

[tom lucas]

Two bandsaws here. I use a 17" grizzly for resaw and general straight cuts in thicker stock. I have a 14" fitted with a Carter stablizer bearing on a 1/4" bimetal blade (fine toothed, 14 tpi, I think) for curved cuts, and cuts in thinner, and soft material. Love the Carter stablizer and the bimetal holds up well. Cuts plywood pretty cleanly. I seldom run thick material thru the 14" bandsaw, but have made a few bandsaw boxes. For that, I change to a coarser blade, like 8 tpi.

[Van Huskey]

I don't have (only) two bandsaw, only because 2 is merely a start...

Often people go with a smaller bandsaw for contour cutting but larger saws also have benefits for cutting contours as well.

As far as machines go bandsaws are one of the few you see multiples of in a hobby shop, primarily because changing tooling is so involved.