Building a bench but have tons of dog hole questions

[Robert Cherry]

I used an inexpensive 3/4" HHS spiral upcut bit from MLCS when I cut my bench dog holes with a plunge router.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../bt_solid.html

[David Eisenhauer]

They said it. Pre drill on penciled in lines with a spade bit to remove lots of the bulk of the waste and then use a 3/4" up cut spiral bit with some type of guide setup (if your German blood, like mine, demands it) to route the main hole down as deep as the router bit will go. Use the straight sided router holes to guide either a brace/bit combo or a long enough spade bit to finish the complete depth of the holes.

[Mike Manning]

For tips on drilling straight vertical holes you might watch this quick YouTube video from Richard Maguire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtayvNvIa6E

This is a great idea! Thanks for sharing.

[Prashun Patel]

Make a hole in a scrap piece of 2x4. If you don’t own a drill press, drill in from each side after carefully marking. You then use this block as a drill guide for your dog holes.

I would invest in a 3/4” Forstner bit. It will give you clean holes.

To make it cut more efficiently, I start the hole in the bench with the forstner then drill all the way through with a 1/2” twist bit, then finish with the forstner.

[Phil Mueller]

I don’t have a lot of holes in my bench top...four across the back. I use battans and clamps when needed and it seems to work just fine. So as suggested above, you may want to start with just a few and see where you might want more later.

Check out a youtube video by Mike Siemsen...workholding on viseless bench. It may not be the same bench design as what you are building, but gives some good ways to hold work without a lot of bench holes.

For me, the fewer holes, just means less sawdust, etc., falling through onto the shelf/floor.

[David Eisenhauer]

I'm with Jason on the benchtop thickness. I think 6" will be a heavy top to move around during assembly and I can't see how it would add any to it's final function. Besides that, you will probably want to rip off the rounded edges of the 2x6. 6" thickness could cause issues with holdfast use, but that is only a guess on my part. My split tops are 12" wide by 8' long by 4" thick each and they are all I want to pick up. I suppose there could be two types of dog holes - some for using in conjunction with a tail vise and others for use with holdfasts. If you are going with round dog holes for your tail vise (of whatever type you choose) use, then both kinds can be (and best done so IMO) drilled after final bench construction. As stated above, many folks start with a router or forstner bit and finish with a longer spade bit or a brace. It is easy enough to draw a straight/square-to-the-world line from your tail vise dog location out along the length of the bench, but I would drill them at a minimum spacing of 1/2 of the travel of your tail vise and a 3"-4" spacing is nice to use. Holdfast holes can be put in later when you start seeing where you will work, but I took care to locate mine so that the sweep of the holdfast (around 7" or so) from hole to hole would just meet.

[Robert Engel]

Dittos on the thickness. Spacing is quite subjective. If you have a quick release vice, it is less important. Mine are 4 1/2".

Distance from the edge is also a consideration. I suggest 2 1/2".

I recommend not drilling a bunch of holdfast holes until you've started using the bench. One or two locations may be all you need.

Sans a drill press, I would use a drilling guide such as this.

A sharp spade bit will do an good job in hardwood. Try in some scrap first. The quality of finish of the hole is not critical. Drill the holes before the final planing.

[Marshall Harrison]

I don’t have a lot of holes in my bench top...four across the back. I use battans and clamps when needed and it seems to work just fine. So as suggested above, you may want to start with just a few and see where you might want more later. Check out a youtube video by Mike Siemsen...workholding on viseless bench. It may not be the same bench design as what you are building, but gives some good ways to hold work without a lot of bench holes. For me, the fewer holes, just means less sawdust, etc., falling through onto the shelf/floor.

Phil, thanks for that tip. I just watched the video and I think I want to build my bench viseless now. Its like any part of the bench can be made to hold down the workpiece. After being away for 17 years I am in the process of cleaning out thegarage and setting up a new shop. This seems like a perfect bench for me as I want to blend hand tools and power tools in my work.

[Prashun Patel]

Spacing and placement is subjective, but this is what works for me:
- Keep your dog spacing less than the full travel of your vise. IMHO, the more the merrier, because it means less opening/closing to get where you need to be.
- I like keeping the dogs 2" from the front edge. This keeps me from having to reach too far in when planing.

[Peter Christensen]

The only thing I would add is clamp a sacrificial board to the underside when you drill the holes. It helps preventing the splintering or blowout on the underside. Admittedly not seen but pride of accomplishment even if you are the only one that knows of it. If you use a different species or colour of wood you know when you are through.

[Tom Trees]

Here is a witty post by Chris Schwarz on the subject
The 6 Personalities of Workbench Builders | Lost Art Press
I havent figured out which one I am yet
Good luck
Tom