New to woodworking - table saw advice

[Simon MacGowen]

Regarding bandsaw vs tablesaw.

They can't replace one another; tablesaws can't cut curves and bandsaws can't cut dados.

Unless your work is specific to certain cuts, bandsaws can never replace a tablesaw in terms of efficiency. Many people said they got rid of their tablesaws but kept their bandsaws when they decided to do more work by hand. Good for them, but for me, the day I get rid of my PCS is the same day I get rid of my woodworking hobby.

You can build plywood cabinets using a track saw instead of a tablesaw but with a bandsaw? Better do it with a handsaw -- at least you don't have the riser block getting in the way.

Simon

[Peter Kelly]

I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well. I will also be looking for a planer/jointer in the near future as well to help our with the warped boards.

As others mentioned, I'd recommend a bandsaw for this.

[Kevin Smira]

As for the "package deal" pricing, it's not really a package deal...It's not deal at all. Regular price for everything...it's more of a "frequently bought together" recommendation. I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

[Simon MacGowen]

I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

Yes, don't get the Ridgid jobsite saw (even though it is cheaper than the Ridigd Contractor saw). In fact, no jobsite saws including the SawStop will deliver the same performance as a contractor saw...unless the intention is do just jobsite work.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

My location is Cleveland, Ohio

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.

I haven't heard of a planer sled before. That is pretty awesome. Thank you for that as well, that is a great idea and a huge help.

Do you mill your own wood?

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you for the input, I absolutely want a contractor saw for the stability. I will not be purchasing the job site version.

[cody michael]

I have seen on craiglist tons of very nice unisaw/pm in michigan especially around detroit, whi is not far from you, look on craigslist and facebook marketplace. I would drive a few hours and get a real cabinet saw before I bought a Homedepot saw (I love my ridgid drills) I bought my Unisaw from someone in Detroit a few years ago for $350 all it needed was an extension table. even after the mobile base extension table etc I have under $500 in a cabinet saw.

[Lee Schierer]

My location is Cleveland, Ohio

There is a 3 Hp unisaw for sale in the Youngstown area.

[Simon MacGowen]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.

I haven't heard of a planer sled before. That is pretty awesome. Thank you for that as well, that is a great idea and a huge help.

Do you mill your own wood?

About 60% of the time with rough lumber -- cheaper in the long run and good choice of lumber and grain.

Step 1: Rip to width with the ripping sled (max 12-1/2" for my Ridgid TP)
Step 2: Thickness plane one side with the sled/shims
Step 3: Flatten the opposite side without the sled
Step 4: Acclimatize the stock for a week or two in the shop
Step 5: Cut stock to final dimensions

Jointing is also done on the tablesaw. Jointer gone for many years as it was taking up space for no reason.

Others have suggested buying a cabinet saw instead of a contractor saw. That is a good piece of advice for anyone planing to do serious woodwork. It really depends on what you aspire to do. For fine woodworking, a decent cabinet saw is a must. Anyone planning to buy a new Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw would be better off with a SawStop PCS since the difference in price is small. Of course, if factors other than price, quality, performance and safety features are the main consideration, the conclusion can be anything but. For the record, none of the three brands mentioned is made in the USA.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

There is a 3 Hp unisaw for sale in the Youngstown area.

This one looks good to me. Price negotiable I suppose.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/t...424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?

[andy bessette]

2 guys can move these Unisaws. Easy and quick to remove the fence rails or table extensions for transport. Cheap to rent a pickup with lift gate.

[Tim M Tuttle]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/t...424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?

One thing I noticed about that saw is that the motor is 3 phase. Do you have that available in your garage?

[Nick Mazzino]

I do not have 3 phase, but I could buy an inverter for a few hundred dollars that I thought might be worth it for this saw?