A leg vise question-

[Dave Zellers]

Hello Dave,

I’m curious about why you are interested in both as front vise and leg vise since they have similar functionality? I’m also interested in what kind of work you plan as that would help with advice. Pardon the pun.

best
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The Veritas front vise (which I'm putting on the end) Will have jaws the full width of the bench- 18". With dog holes on the moving jaw and the bench top, I'll use it to pinch flat work on the top for whatever needs doing- sanding, scraping, carving, routing, etc. Also hand cut dovetails and regular vise things.

The leg vise is for edge work on larger pieces like cabinet sides or just boards that could be held by the leg vise on the left and supported by the other leg on the right. Also just for fun because I want one and the only thing I needed to buy was the screw.

I have just retired from life as a custom finish carpenter that included a lot of cabinetry.

It's time to have some fun. I'm getting ready to re-do our kitchen and then who knows? Whatever strikes my fancy.

[Derek Cohen]

Dave, I think you are on the right track in using a leg vise for edge work. That is its forte.

As I recall, the screw is recommended to be between 9" - 12" from the top.

From the screw up, the chop needs to be wide enough to hold wide boards. From the screw down, there is no clamping (other than the sides of a large panel), and width can be reduced. It just needs to be wide enough to secure the screw and the parallel guide. Any reduction in width is otherwise aesthetic ....



The parallel (or leg) guide I have is solid (no holes) as it is adjusted via a chain (AYS chain adjuster). This allows for variable widths without the need to set a distance.

You might also want to consider adding a sliding deadman, which is very handy when clamping panels and doors ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Zellers]

Thanks Derek- that info re screw position helps. I just came across your review of the AYS chain system yesterday!