Exposed Romex on ceiling

[Robert Hartmann]

<p>
I am installing a Fahrenheat FUH54 heater in my detached garage. The walls and ceiling are finished in OSB. It will be mounted on the ceiling and hardwired to a junction box about 2 ft away. Can I run Romex directly to the box from the heater (2 ft run) stapled to the ceiling? I would rather not install a plug unless I have to. If I this is not possible, do I have to run it through conduit? I have seen mixed answers on whether I can run Romex through conduit...can I? thanks, Rob</p>

[Ole Anderson]

I would just buy a few feet of armored cable with the requisite end terminations and be done with it.

[Jamie Buxton]

So you're proposing to have romex just flying through the air to connect to the ceiling-hung space heater? Romex flying through the air is not accepted by my local building code. Use Ole's approach.

[Art Mann]

I like Ole's approach too but stapling the wire to the ceiling as the OP described is by no means an unsafe or prohibited practice in all areas. Local codes or individual inspectors determine that.

So you're proposing to have romex just flying through the air to connect to the ceiling-hung space heater? Romex flying through the air is not accepted by my local building code. Use Ole's approach.

[Jim Becker]

Getting power to the vicinity of the heating unit is the easy part and whether it's romex or other wire fastened to the ceiling is more or less an issue of code or interpretation of code. However, I'm a strong proponent of doing a more formal drop/connection to the heater, itself, and that includes terminating the feed in a J-box and then transitioning to a flexible and protective cable/cord from that box to the unit. I personally used rubber 10 gage for this (the same stuff I use for machinery cords), but armored would be another option. But that's me...

[Brian W Evans]

Getting power to the vicinity of the heating unit is the easy part and whether it's romex or other wire fastened to the ceiling is more or less an issue of code or interpretation of code. However, I'm a strong proponent of doing a more formal drop/connection to the heater, itself, and that includes terminating the feed in a J-box and then transitioning to a flexible and protective cable/cord from that box to the unit. I personally used rubber 10 gage for this (the same stuff I use for machinery cords), but armored would be another option. But that's me...

This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):

704ecm-cqfig1.jpg

[Julie Moriarty]

This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):

Greenfield (flexible conduit without wires) is typically used in dry locations when connecting a conduit feed to a motor. We (Chicago area electricians) call the fitting that goes between conduit and Greenfield a "changeover" fitting. Every municipality I ever worked in allowed it, without a box or unilet in between. But the length of the Greenfield is typically limited to 6'. Occasionally it's required to pull in a ground wire.

As to installing romex in conduit, I've never heard of any municipality that allows it. When you change from romex to conduit, a junction box is required. Here's a LINK to the conduit tutorial that used to be a sticky here, in the event anyone wants to install conduit in their workshop.

[Jerome Stanek]

Boy Julie I could tell you stories about the Chicago electricians when I was installing CVS stores. the best one was someone stole their temporary light bulbs that I bought and took back when I was getting ready to leave. Also they got hit hard by Osha for their extension cords that didn't have a gfi on it.

[Dan Friedrichs]

As to installing romex in conduit, I've never heard of any municipality that allows it. When you change from romex to conduit, a junction box is required.

It's often allowed, but the conductors need to be derated (fill factor in the conduit decreases), since the additional insulation limits heat transfer from the conductors.

[Julie Moriarty]

It's often allowed, but the conductors need to be derated (fill factor in the conduit decreases), since the additional insulation limits heat transfer from the conductors.

Dan, that's why I have said time and again, when doing electrical work, consult your local inspector rather than asking questions here. If you do, you will always get the right answer.

[Jim Becker]

This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):

704ecm-cqfig1.jpg

Makes sense since you're just going from rigid conduit to flexible conduit and pulling full length conductors end-to-end. That's a nice clean way to transition from "fixed" to "flexible" in support of something like a ceiling or wall mounted heater or even a hard-wired machine of some kind.

[Bill Dufour]

I have seen wires run at right angles to rafters or joists. But they installed a 1x4 under or over the wires so you could not use them as a clothes line. Similar to a rat run. I think modern seismic code requires blocking, at least for floor joists, not sure if a rat run is required or not.
Bill

[Rod Sheridan]

I personally used rubber 10 gage for this (the same stuff I use for machinery cords), but armored would be another option. But that's me...

Hi Jim, I'm curious as to whether that's legal where you live?

Where I live flexible cord is only allowed for portable devices or where motion is required, it cannot be used as a substitute for permanent wiring.........Regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Rod, the heater is "technically" movable in its bracket to re-aim it, etc., so the connection to the J-Box needs to be flexible. I chose rubber coated for that application and I had some left over from a 30-amp machine cord. I guess one could use armored cable (not fun to work with) or a flexible conduit with THHN to accomplish that, too. Honestly, I didn't check on this further...

[Julie Moriarty]

Where I live flexible cord is only allowed for portable devices or where motion is required, it cannot be used as a substitute for permanent wiring.........Regards, Rod.

If you're talking about "cord" as in extension-type cord, no, that use is typically not allowed for permanent electrical connections. I have never seen it allowed anywhere.

Greenfield or Sealtite can be used when connecting to motors or other loads to reduce vibration. In the areas I worked, when hooking up a motor, flexible conduit was required. But there are limitations on length and there may be additional grounding required. For instance if you're using Sealtite to connect a motor and the motor is rated over 20A, a ground wire is required. Usually, the limit on length for any flexible conduit is 6 feet. (All this based on my personal experience working as an electrician in the Chicago area.)