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Thread: Exposed Romex on ceiling

  1. #16
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    Since my rafters are exposed, I ran the 10 gage wire through them out to the heater location in my shop to a j-box at ceiling level. The drop to the heater is rubber 10 gage. (For those wondering, these units do not come with a cord/plug and are direct wire heaters) In the OP's case, I'd use the armored cable as someone suggested or run conduit with proper conductors if it needed to be surface mounted, even at ceiling level. While there is often some leeway in garage type situations, since it's entirely possible to whack the cable with a board, I'd rather be safe about it.

    One thing I recently did was replace the OEM thermostat and control with an external "real" thermostat and heater control. This was easy to do and is proving to be a lot more consistent. I had to replace it anyway because it "fried"...which is not an uncommon problem with the unit.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    John

    The code can be anything but black and white sometimes.


    \
    It sounds like code is whatever the dude/dudette isssuing the green sticker says it is.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    It sounds like code is whatever the dude/dudette isssuing the green sticker says it is.
    Yep! A lot of truth to that statement.
    They do not have an easy job trying to apply the differing codes. Always check with the local inspector first. It can save a lot of aggravation in the end.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 12-24-2017 at 8:31 AM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    It sounds like code is whatever the dude/dudette isssuing the green sticker says it is.
    True-dat. You cannot believe what we went through during our addition project in 2008 when the "inspector" was still a township employee. Now, they all use an inspection service and things are a little more consistent, but each inspector still may have his/her own point of view on certain things that are not cut and dry.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    One thing I recently did was replace the OEM thermostat and control with an external "real" thermostat and heater control. This was easy to do and is proving to be a lot more consistent. I had to replace it anyway because it "fried"...which is not an uncommon problem with the unit.
    I considered that, but unfortunately this will not be my final garage/workshop. This will be my last assignment in the Air Force before I retire. My wife already said we are not staying here. Too bad, I have an over sized detached 3-car garage that is fabulous. Anyway, I didn't want to put too much effort and money into it only to leave in 3 years, which is why I was looking for the easy solution to get the heater wired.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hartmann View Post
    I considered that, but unfortunately this will not be my final garage/workshop. This will be my last assignment in the Air Force before I retire. My wife already said we are not staying here. Too bad, I have an over sized detached 3-car garage that is fabulous. Anyway, I didn't want to put too much effort and money into it only to leave in 3 years, which is why I was looking for the easy solution to get the heater wired.
    The external thermostat certainly isn't needed. That said, if for some reason the internal one fries...which sometimes happens with these heaters...replace it with an adapter and inexpensive thermostat like I did. It's not "permanent" and you can take it with you very easily. You might leave the wire behind, but that's about nine bucks.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    I like Ole's approach too but stapling the wire to the ceiling as the OP described is by no means an unsafe or prohibited practice in all areas. Local codes or individual inspectors determine that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    So you're proposing to have romex just flying through the air to connect to the ceiling-hung space heater? Romex flying through the air is not accepted by my local building code. Use Ole's approach.

  8. #23
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    Getting power to the vicinity of the heating unit is the easy part and whether it's romex or other wire fastened to the ceiling is more or less an issue of code or interpretation of code. However, I'm a strong proponent of doing a more formal drop/connection to the heater, itself, and that includes terminating the feed in a J-box and then transitioning to a flexible and protective cable/cord from that box to the unit. I personally used rubber 10 gage for this (the same stuff I use for machinery cords), but armored would be another option. But that's me...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Getting power to the vicinity of the heating unit is the easy part and whether it's romex or other wire fastened to the ceiling is more or less an issue of code or interpretation of code. However, I'm a strong proponent of doing a more formal drop/connection to the heater, itself, and that includes terminating the feed in a J-box and then transitioning to a flexible and protective cable/cord from that box to the unit. I personally used rubber 10 gage for this (the same stuff I use for machinery cords), but armored would be another option. But that's me...
    This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):

    704ecm-cqfig1.jpg


  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):
    Greenfield (flexible conduit without wires) is typically used in dry locations when connecting a conduit feed to a motor. We (Chicago area electricians) call the fitting that goes between conduit and Greenfield a "changeover" fitting. Every municipality I ever worked in allowed it, without a box or unilet in between. But the length of the Greenfield is typically limited to 6'. Occasionally it's required to pull in a ground wire.

    As to installing romex in conduit, I've never heard of any municipality that allows it. When you change from romex to conduit, a junction box is required. Here's a LINK to the conduit tutorial that used to be a sticky here, in the event anyone wants to install conduit in their workshop.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  11. #26
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    Boy Julie I could tell you stories about the Chicago electricians when I was installing CVS stores. the best one was someone stole their temporary light bulbs that I bought and took back when I was getting ready to leave. Also they got hit hard by Osha for their extension cords that didn't have a gfi on it.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    This had me worried for a second - when installing my heater I transitioned from EMT (metal conduit) directly to FMC (armored cable) using a special fitting. I just looked it up, though, and it seems to be OK (2005 NEC 300.15(F)):

    704ecm-cqfig1.jpg
    Makes sense since you're just going from rigid conduit to flexible conduit and pulling full length conductors end-to-end. That's a nice clean way to transition from "fixed" to "flexible" in support of something like a ceiling or wall mounted heater or even a hard-wired machine of some kind.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #28
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    I have seen wires run at right angles to rafters or joists. But they installed a 1x4 under or over the wires so you could not use them as a clothes line. Similar to a rat run. I think modern seismic code requires blocking, at least for floor joists, not sure if a rat run is required or not.
    Bill
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 12-30-2017 at 2:02 PM.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    As to installing romex in conduit, I've never heard of any municipality that allows it. When you change from romex to conduit, a junction box is required.
    It's often allowed, but the conductors need to be derated (fill factor in the conduit decreases), since the additional insulation limits heat transfer from the conductors.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    It's often allowed, but the conductors need to be derated (fill factor in the conduit decreases), since the additional insulation limits heat transfer from the conductors.
    Dan, that's why I have said time and again, when doing electrical work, consult your local inspector rather than asking questions here. If you do, you will always get the right answer.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

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