Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Upgrading the HF Dust Collector

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    194

    Upgrading the HF Dust Collector

    I'm in the midst of a long overdue shop redesign and considering upgrading my 2hp HF DC. Id like to build in some PVC ductwork this time. I've got about 20' to the front of the shop (garage door) and 13' of used space across the back wall. Right now my plans are to run the largest machines along the back wall. It would be nice to place the D.C. at the front of the garage- for noise and fresh air (side door w cross winds)

    I think a 20' run and a 13' run would be more than the HF can handle. I have a 8" jointer, cabinet saw, a 18" BS, and a box planer. Plus some smaller tools like a miter saw.

    My budget is pretty light which is why I'm posting this question. I just picked up the (used) cabinet saw and also upgraded my planer. Could I make much of a gain with $600-700 to spend or would it be worth waiting to buy a cyclone designed unit w a 2-3hp motor from... for $1300 or so?

    If I buy used I'd like a large enough impeller and hp to buy a XL Dust deput. I could also build a separator but I don't want to lose too much CFM with a poor design. There are a few used 3hp double bag DCs available near me. The one in town is an old Grizzly for $500. About 90 minutes south is a Powermatic for $600. (I'm in Louisville). The double bags are going to take up more floor space but the improved CFM is attractive.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Abilene, TX
    Posts
    109
    I would save the money to buy a 2 stage system. And I would not have filter bags in my shop!
    Bags make great dust distribution systems. Bags defeat the point of having a D.C. System.
    How would you like to be seated in restaurant your meal has just arrived. And then an employe starts vacuuming the carpet around your table? That is not much different.

    a filter is the way to go. My .02 cents worth.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Birmingham, MI
    Posts
    148
    Patrick,

    You are correct about the HF being taxed on any duct run. You are also correct about looking at a 3HP blower for the runs you describe. Assuming that you don't plan on using undersized 4"pipe and there will not be a lot of bends in the runs you should be fine with that size blower. However $500 for an old used Grizzly is insane since a brand new one delivered is $514 (4 bagger). The other issue with older DCs is the insulation class is usually A or B, new ones are E or F. This means they can withstand higher coil temperatures without damage. Also, Grizzly improved the impeller and motor performance over the years. That said, there is no reason the old unit won't perform just fine, but not for $500, $300-350 maybe.

    Which route you go is up to you. Building a system around an XL is great if you don't mind piecing it together. Buying the parts and putting it together or buying a complete system and putting it together, still requires putting it together. Obviously the complete system will save some time, but that is the premium you are paying for.

    Regardless of the route you go, you should start with your layout and determine the pipe and system resistance your DC will have to overcome.

    Here is an example of a self built system similar in size to yours. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...uy5CvJJ0jQxbVx

    Also this site or Bill Pentz site can help with duct design. https://airhand.com/designing/
    Hope this helps. Let Us know what you do.

    Carl

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    194
    Thank you both, Carl and Lane, for the replies. I'm anxious to get this D.C. system started and will probably just go with a used 3hp motor with a larger impeller, then add the XL Dust Deputy and cartridge filter to stay on budget. That's about $500 before the motor, so I'll keep my eyes open for a used one to stay under $1k.
    Carl, your comments about the older Grizzly models were helpful. I'll see what other options pop up in the meantime. I don't mind the assembly time. It's a hobby shop and I probably enjoy the time tinkering with the shop fixtures as much as I do making stuff for the other rooms of my house- just one more reason why it's best that I keep my day job.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Abilene, TX
    Posts
    109
    Thank you,

    feel free to PM me with your contact info and I will share with you other information if you wish.

    Lane

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Amherst, NH
    Posts
    2
    Blog Entries
    1
    <p>
    This is my first post on Sawmill Creek. I took the HF dust collector, added a cyclone I had bought on EBay a few years earlier, and then placed a steel garbage can under the cyclone and added a filter pack on top and a plastic bag for whatever got through the cyclone. So far, in a couple of years, I have emptied the can one, and the bag has a little bit at the bottom. I initially plumbed with 4 inch furnace piping, with tape on all seams and joints, but I am planning on putting up 4 inch PVC in place of it. My shop is in transition, right now. I am adding a pair of RAS, al la Frank Haworth, along the south wall. The north wall has my router table assembly with flanking cabinets, and pellet stove. East wall has my midi lathe. West wall has Delta Lathe and eventually, my 12 inch Snowflake band saw. Dust collection will accommodate these principle work centers. A question for the smart guys and gals here. Should I consider 6 inch PVC for the main line, and 4 inch for the branches? Is there a lighter weight plastic I could use? PVC is pretty heavy.</p>

  7. #7
    You'll get lots of variations on what should be done. First read Bill Pentz's site about dust collection (long and a difficult read at times) and then plumb with 6" right to each machine. Open the ports on them if possible or use multiple 4" lines to it. The bandsaw can have a 4" under the table by the lower guides, a second in the lower wheel guard and the third behind the upper blade guide. The sewer and drain pipe is the lightest. You don't need schedule 40. Keep the runs a short as possible and use the minimum of flex hose.

    Forgot to say welcome to the forum.
    Last edited by Peter Christensen; 12-18-2017 at 11:31 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •