Waterlox Sealer Finish

[Brian Akers]

Ok guys, those who have used the waterlox products I got a question. I'm finishing a table made of industrial flooring that's a combo of heart pine, douglas fur and who knows what other pine might be in there and a couple of pieces are still really resinous. Anyhow, first coat went on and this stuff was thirsty, (all air dried)! After 24hrs it barely looked like it had any finish on it at all. So I went on with my second coat and now 24 hrs later it's 95% dry but some places feels a little rubbery. Not tacky, just rubbery. Should I wait a little longer before I sand it? Thanks!
(pic is about 20hrs after first coat.)


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[Robert Cherry]

I use Waterlox pretty frequently. Very thin coats and lots of patience are required. The first few coats usually look frighteningly uneven but as you build the finish it evens out.

You should always use the Original Sealer/Finish for your first few coats. Switch to the gloss or satin for the last few coats if you want to change the sheen. Depending on the wood I find it usually takes 5-6 coats to build an acceptable finish

[Brian Akers]

I use Waterlox pretty frequently. Very thin coats and lots of patience are required. The first few coats usually look frighteningly uneven but as you build the finish it evens out.

You should always use the Original Sealer/Finish for your first few coats. Switch to the gloss or satin for the last few coats if you want to change the sheen. Depending on the wood I find it usually takes 5-6 coats to build an acceptable finish

Maybe my second coat was a little heavy since a few spots feel rubbery?

[Robert Cherry]

That's very likely. Let it dry another day then Try very thin coats going forward. I think you will find it works better for you.

[Jim Becker]

Be sure your temperature is high enough to be in the effective curing range for the finish and yes, do be careful with how thick you lay it on.

That said, I just completed a "large surface" of VG D-Fir for a commission and it absolutely required more coats of finish than anything I've ever done before. It may be the nature of the softwood structure...I don't know. I was not using an oil based product like you, but my experience was similar relative to that piece of the puzzle. I actually ended up with about 12 sprayed coats plus two initial sprayed coats of de-waxed shellac to seal in water soluble dye, but part of that was because of an issue with the finishing product I initially used. It wasn't a terrible thing, however, because it gave me multiple opportunities to further level the finish.

[Brian Akers]

Does air dried wood drink up more than kiln dried? I vaguely remember reading that kiln drying changes the chemical composition where as air dried you can rehydrate somewhat more. Maybe I'm way off on that and had a dream about it?

[Jim Becker]

It's the nature of the wood, not how it was dried. Absorption rates between early- and late-wood in softwoods sometimes behave like this.

[Brian Akers]

Be sure your temperature is high enough to be in the effective curing range for the finish and yes, do be careful with how thick you lay it on.

That said, I just completed a "large surface" of VG D-Fir for a commission and it absolutely required more coats of finish than anything I've ever done before. It may be the nature of the softwood structure...I don't know. I was not using an oil based product like you, but my experience was similar relative to that piece of the puzzle. I actually ended up with about 12 sprayed coats plus two initial sprayed coats of de-waxed shellac to seal in water soluble dye, but part of that was because of an issue with the finishing product I initially used. It wasn't a terrible thing, however, because it gave me multiple opportunities to further level the finish.

I've got a legit living room woodshop here. Heat on at 73 and two windows open for cross breeze.

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[Prashun Patel]

Air dried and kiln dried won't make an appreciable difference here.

Softwoods absorb a great deal of wiped on finish before they start building.

Anyway, you're going to be fine. Just let it dry a little longer. Don't sand until it stops being rubbery.

It's a little dangerous to be finishing in your living space like that. Are you venting properly?

There are 2 kinds of Waterlox OSF: Original Formulation and VOC Compliant formula. The Original Formulation is the one that has the great reputation. I had problems the one time I used the VOC version. Assuming you are using the Original Formulation:

It can be applied thin or thick. If thin, I find it needs at least 24 hours in similar conditions to yours in order to be ready for the next coat. If I don't give it adequate time, the next coat can drag a little and doesn't quite wipe around and level as well. You only need to sand every three-isa coats or so. If you are applying it thicker or even brushing, I personally, would give it more time to dry. Other people don't mind the drag, and instead care only if it passes the pinky test (your pinky does not leave a fingerprint) but I find it brushes and wipes much easier if the surface is a little more hard than that.

[Matt Day]

I used Waterlox before switching to Arm-R-Seal. When I used WL, my favorite way to apply it especially for flat surfaces was to use a wide foam brush. Load up the brush and lay it down thick in one direction. Immediately after run the brush in the opposite direction to help reduce streaks.

[Alan Lightstone]

There are 2 kinds of Waterlox OSF: Original Formulation and VOC Compliant formula. The Original Formulation is the one that has the great reputation. I had problems the one time I used the VOC version. Assuming you are using the Original Formulation:

+1. After doing many projects with the Original Formulation, I accidentally tried the VOC Compliant Formula. Somewhere years ago I posted the horrible results and ordeal. Never again.

[Ted Phillips]

+1. After doing many projects with the Original Formulation, I accidentally tried the VOC Compliant Formula. Somewhere years ago I posted the horrible results and ordeal. Never again.

I concur. The VOC-compliant stuff was really difficult to work with and didn't give me the results I expected. I'm sticking with the original stuff.

[Brian Akers]

Thanks for all the help guys! I delivered the table last night. Also I was using the original sealer finisher in case anyone was wondering.

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[Thomas Hutson]

i use big foam brush and load it up and get a good heavy coat on the softwoods the first coat or two because they drink it up real fast. i never sand unless theres an obvious run or surface defect. occasionally ill go over with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad to get the little inevitable dust nibs or sometimes gnats that cant help but land in my finish. first two coats are this way. the last three coats i wipe on with a clean old sock. finishes look great and come out streak/drip free. I would use arm r seal more often but it is unobtanium where i am. big thing is making sure everything is allowed to dry. cross ventilation is more necessary than heat imho for these products.

[robert baccus]

Have you ever considered a good heavy bodied sanding sealer such as Mohawk? Maybe 2 coats.