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Thread: Harbor Freight Beal System?

  1. #1

    Harbor Freight Beal System?

    Looking to get a buffing system. Thinking of a 8" buffer from HF and maybe their brown (tripoli?) and white (???) compound sticks. Any thoughts on this? It would clear $90 with coupons etc.

  2. #2
    I wouldn't use mystery polishes -- stick with known sources. That being said, I have no idea why beal pushes white polish when it's conspicuous if it gets in the grain of the wood. HFT wheels might also be inferior -- but I've used $4 6" buffing wheels from ebay with good results; you just stack two on your mandrel.

    If you have enough swing on your lathe you really don't need a separate buffer -- just takes up space and limits your options (speed, buff selection) compared to the versatility of a drill chuck on the lathe. IMO of course.

  3. #3
    I've purchased buffs and polish from http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing.html/ in the past and been very happy with them.

  4. #4
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    The buff wheels are the key. I tried buying all sorts of different (cheap) wheels. I hadn't a clue what I was doing. I tried burning a lot of finish off. Getting absolutely nowhere. Finally ended up buying the Beall system and was completely happy. I spent quite a few bucks "learning" what does NOT work...... Buy a system, any system, there are a few of them out there. They did the research, and know what works and doesn't work. There's been a lot of buffing threads here.

  5. #5
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    If you have a collet chuck or a drill chuck, I would go to Caswell Plating and by the wheels. But 5" bolts and cut the head off. That will be your buffing mandrels. It takes 1 bolt, 2 nuts and 2 washers for each wheel. Or you can thread a blank to fit the spindle and add a bolt to the end for the buffing wheel.

  6. #6
    For whatever it may be worth, it is my understanding that the Beall wheels are cotton, cotton/linen blend, and linen. The linen is for the tripoli, the blend for white diamond and the cotton for wax. The system, with the taper, will cost you about what you are going to spend on the setup you are talking about from HF, but you will be able to use it on your lathe and it works. I doubt I would start experimenting - other than to not use the carnuba, but to use Renaissance wax (or some other micro-crystalline wax) from the outset rather than the carnuba.

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  7. #7
    Probably the best reason yet. Thanks guys. What should I buy? https://www.woodcraft.com/products/b...od-buff-system is this what I'm looking for? Are the bowl attachements worth it? I do bowl turning also.

  8. #8
    Cheaper at the source - http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

    Get the morse adapter if you want to use it on the lathe and buy a piece of threaded (1/4 x 20, as I recall) all thread, a washer and wingnut to use as a draw bar.

    I had the bowl buffs and didn't care for them. I can reach most things with the wheels, but you wouldn't be able to get inside a small steep sided bowl.

    You may want to call Beall to make sure which parts to buy. I haven't checked part for part against CSUSA or Woodcraft.
    Last edited by John Keeton; 12-05-2017 at 2:33 PM.

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  9. #9
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    There is another picture and explanation of how I made it on this thread. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Adapter/page2

  10. #10
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    Remember that the wax sticks compounds(tripoli, white diamond ect) were developed fpr metal and rock polishing. Do try liquid auto compounds and waxes--far superior on finished wood pieces. Carnuba is fine if you use a softened wax such as tree wax or others and not the solid bars. These liquid products polish and wax Porshes, show cars and Jaguars every day which are very expensive to screw up.

  11. #11
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    I have the HF 8" Buffer and it is very powerful but I do not see it on their site anymore. You have to be careful not to get the piece ripped out of your hand. It does the job though!

  12. #12
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    Robert, what brand polishing compound and waxes do you suggest.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    Cheaper at the source - http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php
    Get the morse adapter if you want to use it on the lathe and buy a piece of threaded (1/4 x 20, as I recall) all thread, a washer and wingnut to use as a draw bar.
    I had the bowl buffs and didn't care for them. I can reach most things with the wheels, but you wouldn't be able to get inside a small steep sided bowl.
    You may want to call Beall to make sure which parts to buy. I haven't checked part for part against CSUSA or Woodcraft.
    I too would just buy the genuine Beall rather than try to save a few bucks on something that is not proven.

    I've been using their buffing wheels for a long time. I like the #2 morse taper mandrel. In fact, I bought two extra MT mandrels so I have one for each wheel. I find this a very efficient way to work. I don't bother with a drawbar and they have never come loose.

    JKJ

  14. #14
    JKJ, I use a drawbar as I often need to use the inside edge of the wheel on platters to buff the offset profiles. That puts outward pressure on the wheel and I have experienced the mandrel coming loose from the spindle. The drawbar is quick to apply and it gives me the comfort of knowing it is secure.

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  15. #15
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    Steve-- If you can find an auto paint supply house they have all top quality products. At auto stores you can find Megilards? brand which is good. Like Jordan I use the #2morse taper mandrels and usually 2-3 buffing wheels per mandrel--works fine with no draw bar--just tap it with a rubber hammer. I hate narrow buffing wheels. One of my shortcomings yeah. Also at the supplyhouses you can find compound/carnuba combination liquids that work very well. I do use wax stick tripole compounds for hard tropicals after sanding and before carnuba wax. Makes a fine durable finish but only on very hard woods.

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