How to cut using small templates?

[Nick Shattuck]

Hi,

I'm working on a project that involves making multiple copies of small wooden pieces. So I made a template and went over to my router table and installed my flush cut bit and carefully started trimming. I was really nervous doing this as my fingers were about an inch from the blades, but I've never had a problem before. In this case the bit (it has a straight flute) must have hit an edge and it sent my piece flying. Luckily my fingers didn't follow and my Jack Burton-esque reflexes saved me again. Anyway, I built some wooden fingers with grippy pads on the ends to control the piece, but the bit still hits an edge and either tears it out or throws the whole piece.

I thought about buying a better flush bit but I'd have to order one and I want an instant fix. I read about using a sanding drum w/ bearing as a template sander. So I built one and it works OK, but it's not very fast and takes about 20x as long as using the router bit (and this is with using wood that is about a 1/16th inch bigger than the template, so not much material to remove).

So what is ya'll's techniques for cutting using small templates? And who sells a good spiral flush trim bit?

[Lee Schierer]

If your piece is getting grabbed when you move onto the end grain, you need to climb cut that area. Having your fingers within an inch of the cutter is dangerous. Can you attach the template to a larger handle so you have better control and your fingers are safe. I recently had to make lots of little pieces for some small tractors and I came up with holders to make the cuts from a sled on my TS. I used double sided tape to hold the pieces to the sled.


Perhaps if you show a photo or drawing of the pieces you are trying to handle someone might come up with a good idea to hold them.

[Jim Becker]

When you're working small parts with a template and the router table, make up a "captive" template system that physically holds the workpiece for you so you can keep your hands away from the cutter. Yes, that takes time to setup, but the chance of injury goes way down.

[Robert Cherry]

Here are two jigs I use all the time for pattern routing. You might get some ideas from these.

I used this one is for making ebony splines on a recent G&G project. The yellow thing in the background is a small parts holder from MLCS.

IMG_1339.jpg

This is one is useful for bigger parts. I relocate the toggle clamps as needed to suit the part I'm routing.

IMG_1163.jpg

[Jim Morgan]

Template routing small parts in the round can be hazardous. You might do better with a series of templates, each of which cuts a portion of the contour and each of which provides some extra area so that it can be held safely.

[Bill Dufour]

Are you using a pin on the table so it does not grab and throw as easy?

[Jim Becker]

The bottom line is that you want your fingers several inches away from the cutters when doing this work...hence, the recommendation for using jigs to hold the workpiece. This also insures greater consistency with the finished product. Robert's example is really good...those G&G ebony splines he mentions are remarkably consistent and detailed. I've seen them with my own eyes and touched them with my fingers. No way you can get there easily or safely without using the method he describes and shows.

[Nick Shattuck]

These replies give me some good ideas. I think I'll build a jig.

[Jim Becker]

These replies give me some good ideas. I think I'll build a jig.

Your fingers will thank you. And so will your project(s)!