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Thread: Another new shop layout thread

  1. #1
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    Another new shop layout thread

    Capture.PNG

    So the time has come to part ways with my old and extremely small work area. I've been playing with some ideas of the new space which is a fully enclosed two car garage. 21' x 23' roughly. There is a small alcove with windows for natural light that I plan to build around and place tall shelving on both sides and a desk to work at. I don't have those in this layout yet.

    Basically here is what I have so far. I have the lawnmower and two string trimmers there for reference for lawn equipment I will need so that area with be strictly for that. 9' ceilings are in the garage so I plan to use as much overhead space for knick-knack storage of stuff that won't be associated with the shop.

    Anyways I'm looking for work flow related suggestions. I want to keep the dust collector on the outer most wall to keep as much noise from going into the house. The garage will be insulated so I do plan to put a mini-split in as well. I will also being using a two part epoxy on the floors. Assume all tools with be on casters.

    Anyways, I figured this would be a good start being actually getting into the shop. I know layouts are very dependent on the person and should be worked in before finalizing, but I have to start somewhere. This is exciting going from my old work space to this.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    My immediate suggestion is to make that big assembly table something both modular in size and height so that you can even take it away when you need the space for things like finishing or other unique assembly needs. This is particularly important in a smaller shop space so you can maximize the flexibility. Personally, I might flip the positions of the table saw and the jointing/thicknessing and even consider flipping the hand-work bench and the assembly area so you can have that nice light to do your bench work with. But that's me...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    My immediate suggestion is to make that big assembly table something both modular in size and height so that you can even take it away when you need the space for things like finishing or other unique assembly needs. This is particularly important in a smaller shop space so you can maximize the flexibility. Personally, I might flip the positions of the table saw and the jointing/thicknessing and even consider flipping the hand-work bench and the assembly area so you can have that nice light to do your bench work with. But that's me...
    I have been toying with the idea of putting the hand-work bench in front of the window for the natural light. I am debating on doing away with the assembly table together and make a bigger outfeed/assembly table. That would free up a ton of space.

  4. #4
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    The reason I mentioned a more modular approach to the assembly "table" is that the flexibility will be there for smaller projects and taller projects. These all have different optimal working heights and required surface areas. If you just increase the size of your outfeed table, you gain some surface area, but it's either not usable for assembly if you're using the saw or not available for sawing if you're using it for assembly. When I had my cabinet saw, I often did use the outfeed table for things other than outfeed and quickly learned it was more of a limitation than an advantage. Modularity frees up ALL the space when you're not actually using it!

    Just so you know, this recommendation is coming from someone who recently re-engineered his shop specifically to embrace this idea after years of struggling with the subject. Although my shop is generally a little larger than yours, I still have space challenges because of a stairwell combined with "big tools".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    For me at least, I like the tablesaw infeed near my bench/table. Basically, if it were mine, I would turn the table saw 180 degrees. My .02 worth.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The reason I mentioned a more modular approach to the assembly "table" is that the flexibility will be there for smaller projects and taller projects. These all have different optimal working heights and required surface areas. If you just increase the size of your outfeed table, you gain some surface area, but it's either not usable for assembly if you're using the saw or not available for sawing if you're using it for assembly. When I had my cabinet saw, I often did use the outfeed table for things other than outfeed and quickly learned it was more of a limitation than an advantage. Modularity frees up ALL the space when you're not actually using it!

    Just so you know, this recommendation is coming from someone who recently re-engineered his shop specifically to embrace this idea after years of struggling with the subject. Although my shop is generally a little larger than yours, I still have space challenges because of a stairwell combined with "big tools".
    How would you build it as modular? Could use a lift cart as the base and build on top of that I assume. I would absolutely love to have a workbench at different heights. I'm 6'6" so normal height sucks for me.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Alu View Post
    How would you build it as modular? Could use a lift cart as the base and build on top of that I assume. I would absolutely love to have a workbench at different heights. I'm 6'6" so normal height sucks for me.
    Well, if you look at this photo from today, you can see that in addition to my workbench, I have my MFT helping with the assembly of a very large commission project I'm working on while toward the right in the photo, you'll see two other "temporary" work surfaces being used for other things while the glue is setting up on the other project. . If I put the temporary work surfaces on lower (or higher) supports, I can get different utility from them. If I put those things away, I have a completely open space which is helpful when I'm doing finishing work. (I do not have a separate room for spraying finishes and therefore use water borne products exclusively)

    IMG_E1317.jpg
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    Assuming the door on the right leads to the house, most of your noisiest machines are near that door and the entry to the garage. Your dust collector is far from your primary dust sources. If you have an overhead garage door, consider how the door movement and tracks will affect the duct arrangement. The work flow should also include consideration of wood in and out of storage to the tools and how your products will get out of the shop. Altogether, these factors indicate moving the major equipment further into the shop.

    Consider moving the storage unit to the wall along the house side and your work bench near the window. Centralize the table saw to some extent with a combined assembly/outfeed table. Then you could have your lumber coming from storage to along side the jointer and planer as you have arranged those two. The bandsaw, drill press, router table and sanding station could go along the back wall. A sizable mobile cart will make all that material movement easier. Just another $0.02.
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Utterback View Post
    Assuming the door on the right leads to the house, most of your noisiest machines are near that door and the entry to the garage. Your dust collector is far from your primary dust sources. If you have an overhead garage door, consider how the door movement and tracks will affect the duct arrangement. The work flow should also include consideration of wood in and out of storage to the tools and how your products will get out of the shop. Altogether, these factors indicate moving the major equipment further into the shop.

    Consider moving the storage unit to the wall along the house side and your work bench near the window. Centralize the table saw to some extent with a combined assembly/outfeed table. Then you could have your lumber coming from storage to along side the jointer and planer as you have arranged those two. The bandsaw, drill press, router table and sanding station could go along the back wall. A sizable mobile cart will make all that material movement easier. Just another $0.02.
    You just brought up a really good point that I overlooked. The overhead garage door will most certainly interfere with how I was planning on running duct work. This while no doubt change my layout. Thank you.

    This is the exact reason I asked for ideas. After looking at something for so long it's easy to miss/overlook the small details.

  10. #10
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    Similar space to mine. I went with a center island approach with workbenches and tool boxes around perimeter for storage. I put the jointer to right of the table saw and it works well there.









    it is constantly evolving as you can see just in these pictures. I've had to reconfigure a few times as I've added tools but the center island approach has remained constant. Good luck with your setup.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 11-16-2017 at 11:35 AM.

  11. #11
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    Greg I love that setup. And that fold down planer is such a great idea.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Alu View Post
    Greg I love that setup. And that fold down planer is such a great idea.
    Thanks. I got the layout idea here on the forum a while back. Works well for me.

    The planer shelf works great too. Out of the way when not needed and easy to fold up with a little muscle. Could probably be automated with some effort. I used two layers of 3/4" ply for the shelf, applied a piece of the butcher block to extend the outfeed when folded down, and used a bunch of scrap steel square tubing, bolts and hinges to hang and support it.

    Having the the planer on one side and jointer on other makes work flow take a few extra steps but they are out of way of the saw capacity, and I can run 10 foot boards through both with the big door shut. 12+ when open. Same principal applies to my miter saw as I can cut really long boards with the house door open.



    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 11-16-2017 at 9:35 PM.

  13. #13
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    For those doing the "center cluster" type approach - do you have a structural center column that you are clustering around? If so, is it a benefit or a hindrance? For those without a center column, do you ever wish there was one?
    Doyle

  14. #14
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    If you look at Greg's setup. It looks like he created a small center column from 2x4's to allow him to secure his duct work and some electrical for the center island.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Alu View Post
    If you look at Greg's setup. It looks like he created a small center column from 2x4's to allow him to secure his duct work and some electrical for the center island.
    Correct. I simply took two 2x4 and fitted them under a wye in my pipe. I applied a thin piece of hdpe to the foot of those 2x4 so they wouldn't absorb moisture from the concrete. Once strapped to my pipes, it adds strength to the straps holding the ceiling run to the joists overhead. I used 2x4 instead of galvanized pipe or similar for my support so I could mount electrical boxes to it. I made extension cords basically to get my wall mounted boxes out to the center of the room. Used 10ga extension cords wired to an enclosed surface mounted outlet box. Works great and didn't require a full room rewire.

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