Anyone modified the Hammer K3 blade guard?

[Derek Cohen]

Here is the blade guard on my Hammer K3 (it is set higher than in the photo below) ..



Parts ...



At the rear of the guard is a pin that acts as a stop (it can just be made out in the second photo). The problem is that the guard does not lift up and extend to offer visibility when lining up a cut. How do you deal with this? Modify/remove the pin?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Derek, mine doesn't have that pin so it will pivot straight up if I want.

I would suggest removing the pin or cutting a slot in the splitter.

I have to admit however that I don't normally line up cuts visually as I grew up with a saw with a metal guard so you couldn't see anything anyway. I normally just set the fence or crosscut stop...........Rod.

[James Zhu]

You do not need to see the blade to line up the cut. I add a wooden block (zero clearance to left side the blade) to the end of the crosscut fence. I also use Fritz & Franz on the slider, I can see the cut line easily.
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[Derek Cohen]

Hi James and Rod

Thanks for the replies.

I do have a F&F jig on the slider. And, of course, one sets the fence for a rip. However, when cross cutting from the crosscut fence (mine is at the foot of the 49" slider), I want to be able to align the blade with a mark. The blade guard cannot be lifted to see whether the tooth is set against the mark. I am just used to aligning directly - still getting used to the new saw. Old habits die hard. I guess that the answer is to add a block the end of the fence for aligning at that spot.

The other reason for swinging the guard away is that it would make it easier to change a 12" blade. At present I remove the guard each time for more space.

Regards from Perth

Derek