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Thread: Powermatic PM1000 vs Grizzly 1023RL - Any thoughts?

  1. #1

    Powermatic PM1000 vs Grizzly 1023RL - Any thoughts?

    A guy I know has a almost brand new PM1000 that be bought and used for one project. Virtually new. He is asking $1400. I can get a new Grizzly 1023RL for basically the same money. The fit and finish on the PM1000 is excellent - however it is only 1.75 hp vs 3 hp for the Grizzly. The PM1000 does not weigh near as much as the 1023RL. Both are flat belt drive and have a dust shroud around the blade.

    I suspect that the PM is the higher quality saw but is not as heavy duty as the Grizzly. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Quality-wise I don't think the Grizzly stands up to the Powermatic. I have both 1.5 hp and 3 hp Unisaws; they're both fine.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  3. #3
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    The quality between Grizzly and PM is debatable. I have never seen a PM100 in the wild. I sold a Unisaw that I restored and bought a G1023RL an I can't be happier. It came about as perfect as you can get. My only complaint was that the throat plates were warped. I called Grizzly and they sent me a phenolic ZCI. I haven't used a factory throat plate in decades.

  4. #4
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    I'll bet that either saw would be fine quality-wise. If you were sawing mostly sheet goods & <1" stock I doubt you'd notice the difference between 1.75 h.p. and 3 h.p. If you regularly sawed 2"+ hardwood you may notice the difference.

  5. #5
    I cut 3&quot; or more in hardwood with a 15A universal motor Ryobi BT3100. It will not do it reasonably with the 50 tooth Freud it normally wears but with a 24t rip blade, feed rate is reasonable and there is no burning as long as the blade is clean and sharp. My opinion is that more HP just allows you to use the &quot;wrong&quot; blade or a dull or dirty blade and still get the work done. 1.75hp is enough as long as you willing to use the right blade.

  6. #6
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    Are there any features other than the motor size that are different? For example, is one right-tilt and one left-tilt, or does one have a splitter and the other a riving Knife? I don't know the specifics of either saw, but you might look for those sorts of differences. How important is it to you to have a new saw with a warranty? Would you rather meet a freight truck at your house, or move a saw from your friend's house. I think they are both good saws from companies with good customer service, so I don't think you can go too far wrong either way.

    --Geoff

  7. #7
    I own a PM66 saw, a powermatic jointer, and wish everything else was too. That said I have a grizzly drill press, grizzly 17" bandsaw and Laguna 18/36 lathe.

    For what it's worth the grizzly 1023RL shows out of stock right now. I would probably lean towards the PM1000 for home shop use but that's just me.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 11-14-2017 at 9:11 PM.

  8. #8
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    I own several PM tools, including a PM2000. I think the fit and finish is about as good as it gets these days and a 5 year warranty is nice as well. They seem to hold resale value well around here too. I'd lean towards the PM personally, but I'm definitely biased.

    What at type of projects do you expect to do? Will you need the extra power?

  9. #9
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    I have no idea what either a PM1000 or a Grizzly 1023RL is, maybe you could make the effort to post links and make it easier on us folks that don't want to spend time on Google just to figure out what this thread is about?
    Last edited by Bill Graham; 11-14-2017 at 9:49 PM.

  10. #10

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Graham View Post
    I have no idea what either a PM1000 or a Grizzly 1023RL is,
    These are well known table saws, although the PM1000 specifically is less commonly seen since it's a lower horsepower model. The Griz 1023R series has been available for many, many years. The "L" at the end indicates left-tilt.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    The quality between Grizzly and PM is debatable. I have never seen a PM100 in the wild. I sold a Unisaw that I restored and bought a G1023RL an I can't be happier. It came about as perfect as you can get. My only complaint was that the throat plates were warped. I called Grizzly and they sent me a phenolic ZCI. I haven't used a factory throat plate in decades.
    Curious as to why you like the Grizzly so much better? I always figured Unisaw and Grizzly were pretty much equal.

    My vote would be Grizzly myself for the initial question.

  13. #13
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    Thanks, so we're talking table saws, good to know.

    I don't have a Powermatic or Grizzly saw but I've owned one Grizzly jointer, two Powermatic jointers and one Powermatic planer. What I've noticed in my admittedly limited experience is that the Powermatic tools came ready to go out of the box and held alignment with use. The Grizzly, not so much so. I had to tinker with it to get it set up and every so often after that.

    Both tools are made in the same factory, what you get for the extra money is a higher level of QC. And the paint, the name and a big difference in resale price if you decide to sell.

    Honestly, if I was in the market for a cabinet saw I'd buy a Sawstop. I didn't have to make any adjustments to my contractor's saw when I brought it home and haven't had to make any in the 4 years I've owned it. And you get the blade brake in case you OOPS!

  14. Quote Originally Posted by Chris Hachet View Post
    ...figured Unisaw and Grizzly were pretty much equal...
    Grizzly quality is far beneath Unisaw.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Grizzly quality is far beneath Unisaw.
    Oh really... interesting. I own a Unisaw and am very happy with it. Thinking of adding an Oliver, Greenlee or Tannewitz at some point but happy with the Unisaw now.

    Unisaw does not strike me as anything special but it does everything I ask of it.

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