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Thread: Best way to cut space for a faceplate?

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Reed Gray View Post
    Well, depending on how good you are on cutting out the blank for grain orientation, I use a forstner bit slightly bigger than the face plate (3 inch), or the drill press and a smaller forstner bit with the depth stop and you can fairly easily drill out a flat spot. Easiest way to do it. If you are a real stickler for grain lining up perfectly in the center of the bowl, and don't have good chain saw skills, then you may need the spur drive, and remove some bark so you can change orientation.

    robo hippy
    Thank you Reed!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Port Alberni BC
    Posts
    107
    I enjoy doing natural edge bowls. I just screw a 3" faceplate to the bark side with fairly long screws & if need be use a shim. To move the blank you can move it by loosening & tightening the screws. I can also reposition the faceplate by removing all but one screw & rotating the blank to a new position. Works well for me. Ron.

  3. #18
    If you do not have a large forester bit or drill press to hold it, you may want to lock the piece in a vise and then use a hand-held power plane to flatten... Lot's of ways to skin this cat!

    Ely

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    Quote Originally Posted by Barry McFadden View Post
    I have a 3" faceplate so I use a 3" Forstner bit to drill a shallow hole and the faceplate fits right into it.
    My Forstner bit is 3-1/8" but agee with Barry. I like to use drill press table and level up the section to get the bark line wanted and then the piece with faceplate is set and no adjustment is needed at lathe. I found that a 2-1/2" faceplate (only had a 2-7/8" bit then) will drive a 100# wood section with live center support .

  5. #20
    I am glad to see your post. That is how I do it but didn't know if that was the best way. Thank you.

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