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Thread: Entry door stile & rail bit set for flat beveled Shaker edge profile?

  1. #1

    Entry door stile & rail bit set for flat beveled Shaker edge profile?

    I'm building my first entry door and I want to use a beveled edge stile profile with flat panels. Freud makes a 2 piece bit set with an acceptable profile (99-762) but it's only useful for stock up to 1 1/4", and in any case doesn't appear to allow production of real (3"+) tenons. Freud's entry door sets work with 1 3/4" stock, but also result in stub tenons.

    Does anyone have either a source of a stile and rail router bit set that will let me make long tenons or, alternatively, advice on the best way to do this without a tenoner?

    TIA,
    Rob

  2. #2
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    Infinity makes an entry door set with a 15 degree bevel profile, and they offer an extended tenon cutter as an additional option.

    Here is a link

  3. #3
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    Many of the Euro sets have 160mm diameters and can safely cut a tenon of 35 to 40mm. Lots of knife profiles are available or can be ground. For instance have a Garniga set that does pretty much what you seek up to 1-3/4". But 40mm doesn't sound like it would be long enough. If this were something you intended to repeat often you could seek out and purchase a 3 or 4 head tenoner (Millbury, Oliver, Wadkin, etc.) ... and have knives ground for your cope head(s) profile. Those machines were specifically designed to do what you seek. You could also get a matching set of router bits to cut the cope and stick, and in your case I think that's what I'd do.

    Regarding the "shaper route" no harm in putting in a call to Greg at Rangate and explaining what you are trying to.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  4. #4
    Amateur, not pro - so willing to spend the $'s on router or shaper heads but can't afford $'s or space for a tenoner (I have a very oldie-but-goodie Rockwell 3/4" shaper). I think I even have the 1/2" stub spindle somewhere - never used it, and until a moment ago didn't remember that this is why I bought it years ago! Getting old would Su$%@ if I could just remember that I'm old... will contact Greg at Rangate and discuss.

    Through tenon edge profiles seem like an unsolved problem the tool companies could solve - a pair of matched profile router bits seems pretty straightforward?

  5. #5
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    Not sure what you sought (degrees) in terms of a bevel/chamfer. If one could find a matched non-bearing guided set (bevel and chamfer) then the bevel (think of a dovetail bit) could cut the cope on top of the tenon, and the bevel would cut the matching profile on the stick (stile). In fact, it you were just doing one door – and the bevel angle matched one offered by a dovetail bit (typically 7°, 9°, 14°, 15°, other) – you could cut the cope with the dovetail and match the bevel on the tablesaw or even jointer even if there were bevels on both sides of the door. I've also done exterior doors where the profile stands proud and the stick is coped (with a chisel) where the stile and rail intersect. That allows the shoulder of the tenon to be cut flat simplifying the build. It still has a haunch to reduce twist. I saw one of those doors thirty years later and it held up fine.
    Last edited by Bill Adamsen; 11-08-2017 at 10:48 AM.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  6. #6
    I thought of that too, and will experiment; I have time to get this right. I think I have a 14 degree dovetail bit in my Leigh kit. I was planning to use solid 8/4 stock for the stiles and rails but after reading a bunch of threads on exterior doors here, I'm also considering building up 3 piece rails and stiles - so I could match the bevel angles of the cope before gluing up the rails.

    Fun project and I'm sure to learn something.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Lee CT View Post
    Through tenon edge profiles seem like an unsolved problem the tool companies could solve - a pair of matched profile router bits seems pretty straightforward?
    I think it HAS been solved. Look again at the Infinity link above (post #2)-- scroll through the pics to see the extended tenon bit.

  8. #8
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    You could use your cutters and then mortise both rails and stiles and make floating tenons
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  9. #9
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    So combine the 91-525 and the 91-525TC and with a 1/2 tenon you get a 1-3/4" door. Nice because cope and stick can be challenging to match up so that combined profile would be a reasonable way to do it. The combined price is a bit north of $200. For one door I'd likely cut the tenon without a cope but with a haunch, and hand miter (cope) the profile.
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Miner View Post
    I think it HAS been solved. Look again at the Infinity link above (post #2)-- scroll through the pics to see the extended tenon bit.
    Thanks, Jerry - I missed the "tenon of any length" when I looked at it last night. If I had the $35 extended tenon cutter and another $35 bit that cut the reverse profile (pity it isn't available!) I'd be good to go and $130 ahead.

    I'm going to try another method, but if I end up making a houseful of doors like this, will definitely try the Infinity solution.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Lee CT View Post
    If I had the $35 extended tenon cutter and another $35 bit that cut the reverse profile (pity it isn't available!) I'd be good to go.
    I'm not really trying to push Infinity bits--and I probably wouldn't handle your project this way, but...

    The 57-503 ($ 28.00) is a 15 degree chamfer bit which COULD be combined with the 91-525TC to make your door (as could any 15 deg. chamfer bit).

    You'd still need to plow the panel groove and create the mortises.

  12. #12
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    You might research the Freud copy & stick sets a little closer. Some of the cope cutters can be disassembled so there's no bearing to limit depth of cut. You can cut as long a tenon as you want and still have the profile but you need to control the depth of cut by alternative means. I didn't understand how it worked until I saw a Freud demo at a Woodcraft store.

  13. #13
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    I believe Eagle-America has a set of bits for this.

  14. #14
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    Cut traditional mortises first on both sides of the joints, run the profiles and then use loose tenons to get the proper length for strength. (they are not really "loose"...once glued they are not unlike a traditional tenon) This method compensates for the issue of the profile cutters only providing stub-tenons. For the top and bottom rails, you could do bridle joints if you wish since they would be unseen.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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