Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Bandsaw Box Blade Size ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
    Posts
    1,508

    Bandsaw Box Blade Size ?

    What size blades are the best for cutting bandsaw boxes? Is a 3/16 4TPI the
    best all around size to use? I have never made a box before and plan on
    trying my hand at it and have read a few people saying they use this size. What
    is everyone using or recommending for a all around blade size.

    Thanks Richard
     
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    I recently got into making bandsaw boxes after getting the Ventura book about them ("Building Beautiful Boxes With Your Bandsaw"). Her advice about blades kind of flies in the face of conventional bandsaw wisdom, but she recommends a 3/16" 10 tpi blade. I don't know how, but it's worked well for me. The one I'm using is by Starrett, sold at Woodcraft, among other places.

    I tried another blade, 3"16" 3/4 tpi, which worked fine except for the much rougher cut, which means a lot more sanding.

    She claims in her book that you can use that same 10 tpi blade for the straight cuts (slicing off the back and the drawer sides), but I didn't try that. Just used the same 1/2" 3 tpi blade that I use for resawing for those cuts.

    Edit: Here's one out of canary wood that I finished recently.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Nick Decker; 11-07-2017 at 7:07 PM. Reason: Added photo

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lubbock Texas
    Posts
    931
    I have made about thirty bandsaw boxes and I found I liked the 3/16" 20 tpi blades also. I avoided much of the sanding by flocking the inside of all the drawers and the inside of the box/carcass instead. (Makes for a smooth fit of the drawers and requires no sanding.)
    I tried the 1/8" blade also but had trouble keeping the blade on my 14" GO555 Grizzly saw wheels.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Beautiful Lexington, SC
    Posts
    776
    Handsome box Nick, I've made a bunch of these over the years ... I really like the simple flowing curves of your design. The wood choice and finish look great.

    Tim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Beautiful Lexington, SC
    Posts
    776
    Great tip Jim, sanding the inside of these curved boxes is tough, I've always flocked the inside of the drawers .... I'll try flocking the inside of the carcass next time.
    Tim

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Finn View Post
    I have made about thirty bandsaw boxes and I found I liked the 3/16" 20 tpi blades also. I avoided much of the sanding by flocking the inside of all the drawers and the inside of the box/carcass instead. (Makes for a smooth fit of the drawers and requires no sanding.)
    I tried the 1/8" blade also but had trouble keeping the blade on my 14" GO555 Grizzly saw wheels.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    Thanks, Tim. The design is one of Ms. Ventura's, slightly modified.

    I haven't flocked any of mine. Not sure how well that stuff would hold up over time, and I'm guessing it would be near impossible to repair it or get rid of it. Besides, I like the way the grain runs through the box, inside and out, so I wouldn't want to hide it.

    As for the sanding, if I didn't have a spindle sander I wouldn't even think about making one of these.

  7. #7
    I use Lennox 1/8" 10 tpi with a 5 tooth pattern L-R-L-R-raker on a small saw and keep a 3/8 -4tpi on my big saw for semi-straight cuts.

    I sold a ton of these at craft fairs in the 80's and 90's the 1/8" Lennox allows for tiny drawers which were always the best sellers. Work best with graphite blade guides.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    Bradley, I'd like to use a 1/8" blade on my Rikon 14" saw, but Rikon says don't do it. Thought about the Carter Stabilizer, but they don't make one for my saw. Rikon changed the (bearing) guides on this latest version of the saw, and Carter says they're waiting to see if Rikon is gonna stick with them. At any rate, the 3/16" blade is working pretty well for me.

  9. #9
    Nick, I have a 60 year old Craftsman 12" saw that I keep set up for the 1/8"blades. If you have room, these saws can be had for cheap and save a lot of time changing over.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Central Missouri, U.S.
    Posts
    1,263
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    Nick, I have a 60 year old Craftsman 12" saw that I keep set up for the 1/8"blades. If you have room, these saws can be had for cheap and save a lot of time changing over.
    I've considered that, believe me. Just plain don't have the room. I do have plenty of spare time, though, so blade changes don't stress me out much.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
    Posts
    1,508
    Thanks guys for your recommendations and tips.
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •