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Thread: Combination Plane and Lee Valley Tuition

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
    Posts
    1,506

    Combination Plane and Lee Valley Tuition

    Lee Valley Bill.jpg

    Well I headed off to Lee Valley with various cutters sharpened to 8000 grit and a selection of woods (Maple, Pine and Black Walnut).

    This is Bill with my plane getting a work out! We tried various cutters and woods.
    The maple proved most difficult with the 7/16" bead. Firstly the cutters on each side differed in size. The nickers were a problem, one side was fine the other clogged with fibres and forced the nicker out widening the groove in a lopsided way which the rail tried to ride at an angle. We took the nickers off altogether they just don't work and the grub adjustment screw can only make things worse.
    Progress was very slow and very hard work due to friction of the rails. Applied wax to the rails made life much easier indeed but the wax will remain which would be a problem.
    After an hour with the first groove we achieved full round over at one end and we both had a work out!

    Holding the plane level is extremely difficult, as you cut the groove the fence slowly moves away from the work and needs to be moved in, the brass knobs needed periodic tightening. The friction of the rails was enormous and quite a shock.

    _MG_7388.jpg

    We tried a 3/8" flute in pine. It cut easily but you have to use only one rail so balance again proved very difficult. The end result was not too pretty (sorry no pic).

    Next was black walnut with the 1/4" two reed blade. This wider blade balanced well and the smaller radius cut well, a world of difference to the other two.

    _MG_7391.jpg

    We experimented for 4 hours altogether. The plane is hard to use, it's performance varies greatly in different woods and the nickers are useless. My guess is anything but perfectly straight grain will bunch up under one or other and push it out. The grub screw pushes the nickers out also so seems counter productive only making the fibre bunching worse.

    _MG_7390.jpg

    Here you can see the distorted side created by the nicker.

    We did use the supplied 1/4" groove blade also and had the same issues with balance and keeping the groove straight in maple.

    I left feeling this is a very difficult tool. I am extremely dexterous and mostly patient (now I'm older!). If it only works for wide blades and easier woods that's frustrating. Grooves for drawers are a must, as is a 1/4" single bead for me.

    Think of it as a narrow shoulder plane with ice skates for a base that has been drinking whiskey all day to drive the sober craftsman crazy.

    I am trying to think of a fix for the balance issue with narrow cutters, ideas anyone?
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    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

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