[OP]
Member
Good morning. I am making an island top out of maple. Butcher block style. I am ripping and face gluing the strips of maple. Anyway, I am looking for any and all finishing option with pros and cons. I have done quite a bit of research and bar top epoxy is out. I am slightly leaning to linseed oil. Here's a pre glue up pic for fun.
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Contributor
Don't use linseed oil. It has metallic driers in it that you don't want to eat, it stinks, it turns dark over time, probably more things that I've forgotten. If you want to use oil, use mineral oil. The classic butcher block "finish" is mineral oil with bees wax dissolved in it. Search here and I'm sure you will find several posts on how to go about it.
If you plan to cut directly on this definitely do not use a film finish. Oil is your best option but will require regular maintenance. If you aren't going to be cutting on it then you have a lot of choices and an oil/varnish mix, or all varnish finish will offer a lot more protection and minimal maintenance - as long as you don't cut on it or set hot pans on it.
John
Contributor
I would highly recommend that you look at Osmo Top Oil. It is formulated to make an impervious and tough countertop surface. It is a high-solids mixture that wipes on in several thin coats and dries hard. It is also renewable with a fresh coat over the top.
One of the other advantages is that it does not darken the wood like a lot of the oil-based finishes do. It will keep the maple looking bright and light - and won't darken end grain. Great stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Oil-3058-...s=osmo+top+oil
Contributor
Originally Posted by Ted Phillips
Ted, so your experience with Osmo has been good? Others here have reported very disappointing results. What testing results or in-use observations can you share with us? Thanks.
John
Contributor
If you are going to do food prep on it I would suggest Boos Block Mystery Oil. Been using it on my Cherry Butcher Block Island for over 10 years.
If no food prep but you want protection from water/liquid stains then Waterlox OSF.
Contributor
John - I haven't seen any of the other comments on Osmo Oil, so I don't know how they applied/used it. I've used Top Oil for five or six projects - two small tables out of old-growth redwood, a couple of small boxes in walnut and sapele, and a wall-hanging piece out of salvaged koa. I can confirm that the product applied easily. I use the same technique as I do for a wiping varnish - first coat, flood the surface, let it soak in, then wipe off the excess. I then used a scotchbrite pad to level the surface and applied a second coat with a foam brush. After the finish cures, I buff it out with soft cloth to bring up the luster.
A couple of comments about the product: 1. I really like the fact that it doesn't darken woods like oil-based finishes. It kept my redwood tables a medium reddish brown, as opposed to the almost inky red/black they get with danish oil. 2. Top Oil seals the grain on open pore woods in two coats, but it does not build a finish well over hairline cracks or small bits of tearout. 3. I like the fact that you can freshen a worn surface by applying a coat of Top Oil over an existing cured Top Oil surface. It doesn't merge with the existing coats like shellac, but it does bond well to itself and rejuvenates a surface quickly.
What concerns have other folks raised? Just curious...
TedP
Contributor
Ted, this may be a different Osmo product, but is the review I remember: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...highlight=osmo
John
Contributor
John - they are talking about a slightly different product here. The Polyx Oil is similar, but with a much lower solids content than Top Oil. Top Oil was formulated for countertops. Granted, I haven't stress-tested Top Oil - and it certainly hasn't displaced my other preferred finishes (Waterlox, shellac) - but I do like the product for certain applications.
TedP
Contributor
Hi,
I recommend you look into the Tried and True line of finishes. Their Original Wood Finish might be the right choice for your project, especially if you want to avoid darkening. Follow the instructions carefully, multiple razor thin coats. Takes a little patience but as it builds, it starts to really glow.
When I tried Boos Mystery Oil on a cutting board, it was a disappointment. I felt a damp rag after the first use was enough to wipe the finish off to the point where the wood looked raw again. Personally I think it is nothing more than mineral oil in a Boos branded bottle. With the T&T products, the surface will retain a protective coating and glow which I think is important for a prominent surface that will be wiped down and cleaned often.
Contributor
Here's the MSDS on the Osmo Top Oil...
http://www.built-e.com/Products/OSMO/MSDS/3058_top.pdf
1-5 % Candelilla and 1-5% Carnauba wax
50% solvents
Naphtha number 1 ingredient
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
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