What's mahogany? Are we talking about Honduran, Cuban, African or Sapele? The later two I give away and instead use QS white oak, the former I put aside for furniture and instead use QS white oak.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Hi Phil,
Thank you for the information. I tend to agree with the framing comment. I do think it would look better to have drawer fronts made of maple inside a mahogany case than the other way around. Unfortunately, I don't have enough to make the case with mahogany.
That said, I think as long as I do need to get more lumber to make this project I might as well buy the mahogany and be consistent. I will do some shopping locally and see what they have on hand. Does anyone have a recommendation for an internet source for mahogany?
I do not have a detailed design to work from at this time, although I like the look of the Gerstner case I linked to above and hope to build something similar to that one, although I would reduce the number of shallow drawers and go a bit deeper with less of them. I kind of like the center drawer in that and other cabinets like it also.
I know Honduran from how it works, outside of that, I think that a scientific approach is needed:
http://www.wood-database.com/cuban-mahogany/
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
What's sold as African mahogany is often dark red. Some don't consider it "real" mahogany, but whatever it is I like it. Honduran tends to be lighter and is considered to be "real" mahogany (IIRC). IMO, both are nice woods. It sounds like what you have may be Honduran or Cuban. I'd take it with me if you buy locally, just to be sure you've got a grain match. (Color match can be harder if you've had yours for a while - the stuff I've had darkens over time.)
Fred
The one I have looks like quartersawn white oak.
JKJ
Last edited by John K Jordan; 10-24-2017 at 3:28 PM.
Most Gerstner chests are QSWO; probably because it is stable and durable. I built a larger tool cabinet out of it and it has be extremely durable. Don't plan on toting it around very much because the oak combined with tools ends up being very heavy. When I move mine, I have to remove the five drawers.
The issue of metal interacting with the oak is inconsequential. The wood or the tool would have to be wet for staining to occur. You should line the drawers anyway. I used green pool table felt.
You won't regret building one. I put all of my layout tools in it, some small saws, a row of chisels; anything smaller that you want to have a secure place for.
Last edited by Mike Brady; 10-25-2017 at 10:46 AM.
I see that the side panels of the Gerstner tool box are joined, cross-grain, to a rail at the top. This joinery leaves apparent potential for issues due to the cross grain glue joints for these panels. Do you think they don't care about this because the width of the panel is only 10 1/2 inches?
Does anyone have a Gerstner tool box? I am also curious about how they do the lid - whether this is all glued together or whether it is a floating panel? Thanks
My guess is the Gerstner folks knew what they were doing. I think we sometimes get overly concerned with the expansion issues with smaller stuff. I have a 12” oak panel that is edged with black walnut (a top for a small side table). On the ends it is a cross-grain glue joint. Nothing is floating. I wondered if I would have a problem, but I liked the look enough to just try it. It has been at least five years, and it is fine.
Take a look at this SMC thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-plans-guides
Is that a mirror on the inside lid? Do folks want to look at themselves holding a tool?
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
The tool box mirror was also used to comb hair and straighten tie since many guys changed clothes after getting to work early for that purpose. They also changed clothes to go home, even the guys who drove their own cars .Not just the bus riders.