Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Convert shaper table to router table?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,285

    Convert shaper table to router table?

    Anybody ever take an old cast-iron shaper table, gut it, and then mount a router in it? If so, how'd it work for you? I see a lot of old used shaper tables on CL. A new cast-iron router table costs a bundle.

    Jason

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    It would be a great idea, the only thing you would have problems with are;

    1) you would have to make some table insert rings out of wood

    2) you might have to drill and tap a couple new holes for the fence bolts as the fence may not go back far enough for a small bit.

    I read somewhere that someone did that with a Hammer K3 that had a shaper capable top.

    It would give you a large flat stable top, a really good fence with great dust collection, good guards and the ability to mount a stock feeder. The only thing missing would be the ability to run shaper cutters

    Regards, Rod
    Last edited by Rod Sheridan; 10-21-2017 at 10:37 AM.

  3. #3
    I've done something similar with a cast iron scroll saw table. The main issue is dealing with the ribs on the underside of the casting (grind or mill them off) and preparing a land for the router base that is parallel to the top surface.

  4. #4
    A long time ago I got interested in it. I eventually got a cast iron table saw wing extension, but I ran across someone who milled the cast iron out for a router plate with a carbide router bit and a lot of bracing. Personally drilling and tapping cast iron is not a big deal at all. It cuts dry with normal bits and taps. I don't know about rooting it though, but I'm sure there's some way to do it without a large Mill.

    If you didn't want a router plate, cutting the wedding underneath down so the router mounts closer to the table surface wouldn't be too big of a deal if you had a drill press. You could use end Mill and plunge down repeatedly to cut back the wedding to get the router mounted properly. It would be worth a try if you had the time.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    Yes, I've done this. One of my Delta HD shapers was a very early WWII era model with a small hole in the center. In the late 40s or early 50s Delta upgraded the shaper table to the large hole style. I managed to find a large hole table and upgraded the shaper, and the small hole table was available. I used a vertical mill to machine away the webbing on the bottom surrounding the hole, and drilled it to accept a router base. We then drilled out the side wing mounting holes on one side, and mounted it on my friend's vintage Unisaw (which I had previously restored and sold to him) in place of the right extension wing, and then bolted the extension wing to the right side of the shaper/router table. After fabricating a pair of legs to support the extended width, it worked fine. We had a set of extended fence rails, so he can use his Jet Lock style fence for the router as well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,926
    I think it's a great idea!
    You might have to do a little research to determine which models, based on original mounting design, would work best, but that's easy.

    My contribution to the research;
    A Delta 43-375 would have to have the router drop in from the top. There is a lot of internal structural support webbing, and mounting bosses, just under the quill opening, and I think it would be too thick to facilitate the use of a router without a shaft extension if mounted from underneath.
    There is a 6-3/4" cast iron ring in the center that could possibly be adapted. The clearance for the router body would need be about 3-1/2", unaltered, unless you opened up the cast iron hole in the top.

    I wonder if the OEM quill support could house a router body, motor only, unaltered?? That would make it really easy.

    I know that I have considered modifying one of the cast iron wings I have lying about ( I have three of them) to accept a router, and mount it to my shaper. I just haven't got that far yet. That way I would keep my shaper intact and have a table router for small bits.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 10-23-2017 at 8:41 AM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    My router table is a re-purposed, cast iron, table saw top mounted to my Unisaw, so I can use the Unifence with it. I framed it with 1"x1" aluminum and made a custom insert of aluminum.

    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  8. #8
    I'm curious - why not just add a spindle with a router chuck to the shaper? So much quieter.

    Could a person change out the pulleys to speed it up?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Bradley Gray View Post
    ...Could a person change out the pulleys to speed it up?
    No. These machines aren't capable of running small bits at router speeds.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    [QUOTE=Bradley Gray;2738583]I'm curious


    Yes you could if the bearings are rated for that speed (which they probably would be).

    Felder offers a 17,000RPM router spindle for some of their machines.

    My shaper only goes to 10,000RPM...........Rod.

    P.S. If you had a 3 phase shaper you could also raise the speed with a VFD.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    489
    Jason, I did exactly as you describe. I have had several router tables in the past (both store bought and self made)....none were stiff enough. I also wanted a flat, stable cast iron top and didn't want to tie up my table saw top. I concluded that a Boice Crane shaper was the right size (low profile base with a sizable top). I looked for several years before one came up locally for sale ($300). I bought it and removed the spindle and motor (sold the spindle on OWWM for $100). A machinist friend cut the top to accommodate my Woodpecker router lift and PC 7518 router. It works great and I simply clamp on a fence when needed. The cast iron top is stiff enough to use my 1/4 HP power feeder. I also have a shaper (Minimax), but its great to have a router table that is more like an industrial tool.

    IMG_2131.jpg

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    Probably a lot easier to just upgrade the bearings to higher rpm rated units and get the spindle dynamically balanced. Or go whole hog and put it a air bearing spindle but then the rpm would be too fast and the bits would fly apart before any wood got close. Can you say 50,000 - 90,000 Rpm or more?
    Bill D.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,547
    I use this one all the time with router bits. Works fine with exception of small router bits in soft wood. I have done a lot of raised panels, as well as edge work with it.

    I don't care for this fence though, I use a router type fence on it.


    20171007_163831.jpg


    Sorry the pic is twisted, it didn't start out that way.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •