Trying to avoid a water-based poly nightmare

[Bennett Ostroff]

I have a 9x2' top for a media cabinet and I'll be using General Finishes high performance satin topcoat. Unfortunately I don't have spraying capabilities at this time, so I'm planning to brush. I've thinned it about 12% with the GF extender. I did a few test strips on long but narrow scrap and the first coat showed some visible brush marks as well as thirsty spots. The second coat on went a little smoother but not ideal. I'd really like to get a fairly smooth surface. Then I had the idea of measuring out the amount of finish (3.7 oz, given 600 sq ft per gallon), pouring it on, and spreading it out with a brush or paint pad applicator thing. Thoughts? I'm in very dry Colorado and shop temps are 65-75. Thanks.

[Julie Moriarty]

Years ago I first tried Minwax WB poly. I used it on a chessboard and after years of it holding up very well I decided maybe oil based isn't the only game in town.

I sprayed an entire kitchen cabinet reface with GF Endurovar and was pleased with the results. Right now I'm brushing Minwax on sanded plywood and the first coat was the same as you described. I sanded with 320 Granat and applied a second coat. I have applied two more coats, sanding with 320 in between and it's looking pretty good. I did not thin the Minwax poly.

Personally, I prefer the light coat, sand and recoat method. It does the job with no headaches.

[Rob Young]

I have a 9x2' top for a media cabinet and I'll be using General Finishes high performance satin topcoat. Unfortunately I don't have spraying capabilities at this time, so I'm planning to brush. I've thinned it about 12% with the GF extender. I did a few test strips on long but narrow scrap and the first coat showed some visible brush marks as well as thirsty spots. The second coat on went a little smoother but not ideal. I'd really like to get a fairly smooth surface. Then I had the idea of measuring out the amount of finish (3.7 oz, given 600 sq ft per gallon), pouring it on, and spreading it out with a brush or paint pad applicator thing. Thoughts? I'm in very dry Colorado and shop temps are 65-75. Thanks.

Pad applicator. Like the ones used for floor finishing. Pour the finish into a tray, pat pad into tray, squeegee off excess on side of tray (lightly, still want a saturated pad). Use pad like a good varnish brush, same rules apply. Don't be cheap with the pad.

And don't slosh the pad around or jiggle things hard when squeegeeing off excess as that makes the dreaded bubbles.

[Adam Herman]

You can also roll and tip. roll on a nice even, not too thick coat, and then you sort of drag the tips of the brush through it to level. This technique is from the marine industry.

[Andy Giddings]

I just use a foam brush, apply liberally and don't go over the area that's starting to dry. As you've already added extender, it should flow out fairly easily. Two or three coats, sanding in between as recommended by GF