small slider questions SCM SI 16 SF

[Warren Lake]

working on a small slider and cleaning and making small improvements ill post some photos later.

Endless questions as I go both the slider being new to me and then on some service aspects. what ive done so far makes sense then I come to the actual out rigger arm and wonder about that. IM not sure how it comes apart and if it even needs to, looking under it I see plastic rollers on the end but figure there are bearings inside. Does this all come apart well or do you also disturb all the settings it would be nice to get it running based on how it was set up then adjust as needed from there. I see where it pivots on the saw there is lots of dirt and junk on those bearings but they also move very nicely and have no play in them they should be fine for now. its more the inside part that pulls out and if there is service to that its fairly smooth not perfect.

Second thought the sliding table itself has two sets of three bearings. They are caked and maybe one or two almost have grooves worn in them I wont know till I clean it all well. I tried to remove one bearing and while it loosens it wont come out. These are on an cam thing as you turn the allen screw it moves the bearing so I get that then same thing if i was able to get them out then I disturb the whole set up. Ill start with cleaning first as best as I can to see it and understand it better. Should these things just pull out once the allen screws are undone they move like they will then stick maybe it just years of dirt. None of the bearings feel loose so far. Are these some sort of stock bearings that slip on or is it a whole you have to replace the bearing and what its attached to. I cant see you have to replace the whole assembly at least I hope not. Be nice if they are stock bearings that fit onto the metal portion then slide them in and re set up.

the simple clean up stuff has all gone well plus looking at things you see some common sense stuff like sharp edges here so when you move this it binds a bit knock them off etc all the cleaning and waxing on the bars good improvements so far. Thanks to Jack Forsberg for the Scotchbrite on the grinder trick working very well on the rust level this has. found you can cut six pieces from one sheet for this size cup wheel and use both sides. One thought is the cup wheel only puts pressure around the edges so it would be nice to have a wheel that is solid wire all inside to make full benefit of the scotchbrite will have to look and see if there are wheels that are made that way.


And on this machine do you always work your material behind the fence. Ive always worked the other way around on what I had seems to me they make it this way but you have to flip the bar it travels on around if that was to work not so important now ill set it up as it was first of all.

thanks

[David Kumm]

Put a dial indicator on the slider ( fixed to the cast iron table ) and look for any jump when sliding the table back and forth. A jump will be either the bearings on eccentric shaft or a problem with the swivel on the outrigger. If the the outrigger doesn't affect the slider, I'd just clean it up for now. The bearings and likely the shaft can be removed for the slider adjustment. They should be replaced. You may need to heat the bearings to slip them on the shaft ( candelabra bulb ) or pound them on using a small piece of pipe that has a diameter that equals the inside bearing shoulder. I do my tables primarily by hand but a light touch with a grinder and a soft wire cup and scotchbrite can work without removing the original planer or grinder marks. The earlier SI16 were planed with straight lines and the later were Blanchard ground with swirl marks. The planed are preferable but at any rate, don't remove enough material to smooth out the marks. Dave

[Warren Lake]

thanks Dave

the scotchbrite wont remove the grinding not in this lifetime it just removes the rust and leaves a fairly polished surface. bearing stuff cleaned up and could use a a couple which means all of them im trying to read a number on them but its super small print will get that next. I havent tried to take them out again as it will disturb all the settings. I can see the housings that hold the three bearings are both cocked sideways a bit so guess that was what was needed for it to run parrlallel I scribed a bit around them knowing that ill likely change. its going back as it was for now then can hunt for parts. good thought on the dial indicator. Have to find a good solid blade and take a measure off that the top was loosened thinking id want that for moving it not sure it got moved maybe just loosened and hopefully didnt move it

Does the sliding part of the outrigger slide out so I can se what is inside or is it a whole process of re setting it all up if that is taken out it slides fairly well but like to clean it up if possible its just alight clean up getting working for now realize it all has to be set up.

I can see a bit of wear on the bar say one flat spot id think the bar could be rotated and redrilled for mounting to give a new fresh surface probably not needed but would be possible.

Can the fence be used in a forward and back position or just the forward on that saw? thanks

Also some of the models have a whole separate sliding area, what are the main advantages to that for clamping if you rip solid? any more? I dont need to joint on one of these jointer works well for me.

[Warren Lake]

did take some photos and havent had time to get back to it yet.

have a question on the table fence. ON cabinet saws they are adjustable to get your parrallel or not if you want a tow out. You set them up first parrallel the arbour to the mitre slot.

So on the slider i guess a starting point in set up is getting your rip fence parallel to the arbor or blade and done by moving the top on the base? (you decide if you want toe out )